gypsy sport automne/hiver 2016
La marque de Rio Uribe peaufine son identité mais s'impose comme l'une des forces les plus éclectiques et énergiques de la mode new-yorkaise.
Photography Jason Lloyd Evans
Towards the end of the runway outing, Rio's looks transitioned from workwear-inspired to lace-infused. Lattice patterns arrived in honey, rich chocolate, and bone white. "All the girls who work with me have been coming to work in nighties. So I thought, damn, we have to make this nightie movement happen!" Uribe laughed backstage. "We added lace to some of the leather, suede, and fur just to give that weird contrast of neglige but strong outerwear." Paired with thick, fuzzy pullovers and Chris Habana's angular pieces of silver jewellery, lace provided moments of movement and lightness. But on its own, the sheer fabric was an elegant filter on all shades of skin.
"In the men's presentation, we showed mostly the skin print," Uribe explained. "But today, I wanted to show it as layers of different coloured skin on people and how that might be interpreted by someone else. The colour nude isn't really nude for anyone in particular," Uribe said.
Of course, skin wasn't merely the focus of Uribe's designs. His pan-ethnic, gender queer, body-positive cast of NYC's most uniquely compelling kids was out in full force yesterday (that proud pregnant model who closed last season again took the final trip down the runway, this time carrying her newborn baby). The tribe staged an extended dance party for its finale, and attendees snapped and cheered for their favourite runway looks. Autumn/winter 16 showed that precision is possible, even when you're leading a movement that celebrates everyone.
Photographie Jason Lloyd Evans