jeremy scott’s ode to federico fellini at moschino
Take a trip through Italian cinematic history for Moschino men’s autumn/winter 19 and women’s pre-fall 19.
Jeremy Scott is the magic-making, imagination-igniting, fun-fuelling, fantasy-fulfilling fashion king of any and every show schedule. Having long dreamt about reimagining the work of one of his heroes, the great Italian film director Federico Fellini, the small town Kansas-born creative force took his Moschino men’s fall and women’s pre-fall 19 collections on the road to Rome.
Inside the historic Cinecittà studios -- a sprawling film studio known as ‘The Dream Factory’ which has shot more than 3000 films -- Jeremy Scott blew the dust off a Baths of Caracalla set as he cut, pasted and manipulated characters from Fellini’s archive. “It’s Fellini,” Jeremy excitedly explained backstage post-show after being congratulated by Fellini muse Sandra Milo. “It’s all the things I love about him mixed together. There are exaggerations, off-duty showgirls, Casanovas, Centurions. It’s surreal, it’s otherworldly.” It’s Jeremy Scott and it’s Moschino.”
The Rimini-born Fellini famously said that when he found Rome, he found his world. So what did Jeremy Scott find in Rome? “Magic,” Jeremy answered simply. “When you walk around at night and see all these footsteps that have explored the city, it’s truly transportive, it’s like being in a film. When you walk past the Trevi Fountain you think of La Dolce Vita, Anita Ekberg and that moment in cinema, but what I love about it is that it was inspired by a real, paparazzi-documented moment too.” While La Dolce Vita (1960) may have provided the most iconic of scenes, Jeremy found inspiration in Fellini’s full archive as he placed an evolving distorting kaleidoscope that presented a shapeshifting collage of characters from 8 1/2 (1963), Satyricon (1969) -- through the magic of hair stylist Jimmy Paul, the show contained three actual wigs from the film, Roma (1972) and Casanova (1976).
“It’s a taste of Fellini instead of a duplicate,” Jeremy confessed. As centurion armour mixed with evening wear for women and sportswear for men, opulent court gowns from Italian nobility were shortened, cropped, and dissected into a bodice and separate cage skirt, couture gowns merged with men’s tailoring, and stage-ready sequinned-adorned, feather-finished slip dresses were juxtaposed with MA1 bombers and parkas, this was a cinematic curation that only Jeremy Scott could balance.
“I kept returning to this idea of off-duty showgirls,” Jeremy explained. “Are they leaving set going to their trailer, shooting two films at once, ending a shift at their dancing job and taking a walk in the snow?” There’s no right answer, it’s all about the theatre of everyday and just as life and dreams were the raw material for Fellini’s films, Jeremy’s fun-filled fairytale fashion never loses sight of everyday reality. “This collection is all about exuberant characters,” Jeremy added. “That’s what Fellini created, strong characters living life to its fullest and that’s what I try and do myself.” After this high energy tour through cinematic history with its clash of characters, viewers were left with a magical possibilities of transformation and the message of be who you want to be!
Now that’s a 2019 resolution we should all follow.
This article originally appeared on i-D UK.