craig green autumn/winter 15
Though we weren't reduced to tears we were once again seduced by the designer's world.
In his solo debut last season, Craig Green left a mesmerised audience with tears streaming down many of the front row's faces. London had just seen Green's tremendous promise evolve beyond their imagination and for many, myself included, the experience was overwhelming. For autumn/winter 15, with a room filled with anticipation, we weren't reduced to tears but we were once again seduced by his world. It was a carefully considered continuation that subtly shifted the narrative that pulled us closer to his uniform.
"It felt easier, less brutal and more innocent," Craig Green revealed backstage. "But there's a darker element. It's covered and the protective straps are tightened rather than being free to fly away." He termed his previous show a "silent protest" and here, it was obvious that he wasn't interested in rallying but rather romancing. This is the next chapter, the next emotion to evoke. "We began by approaching it in a polar opposite way to last season, making it heavy but as the process went on, we began stripping it away and hopefully we found a balance between movement and structure," he added. The perfect balance was struck, Craig Green's cult of shoe-less dreamers appeared to float down the catwalk. Delighting in the duality of restriction and release, Green's display of whimsical workwear washed over us like a cleansing tide, it's momentum blurring the shore lines of reality and fantasy, protection and vulnerability. In a collection that had its harnesses tightened and bodies covered, flashes of flesh teased and surprised with circles of torso revealed on knitwear. "We discussed watching old cartoons and remembered that when someone died their souls escaped from their chests," Green explains. "It's also the most vulnerable part," he added. Covered yet revealed, another movement to Green's dance of dichotomy.
Whilst silhouettes ranged from soft, second-skin embraces, to a shape shifting assembly of layers, materials ranged from the dreamy, crisp cotton and simple jerseys, drawn close to the body, to the utility of hard-wearing cotton drills and waterproofs with a dynamic sheen. Green framed the classic menswear palette of white, navy, green and black, with three quick fire surges of red just as Wim Mertens' Iris reached its peak. In the ease and elegance of it all, a wonderfully complex simplicity emerged. Autumn/winter 15 was an an act of romance that we were all seduced by.
Text Steve Salter
Photography Ash Kingston