Photography Mitchell Sams

vaquera's surreal love letter to a changing new york

The designers' collection channeled the ups and downs of living in the center of the universe.

by Jack Sunnucks
Sep 11 2019, 2:50pm

Photography Mitchell Sams

Vaquera have been in a pensive mood, as is their want, contemplating New York and how… disappointing it is. It’s supposed to be a glorious and gritty mélange of art and money, and instead you get bathroom mold and Uber pools. This is not what Warhol’s Superstars had to deal with. Taking the third act of a triple bill shared with Section 8 and CDLM/Creatures of the Wind, Vaquera took that heartbreak and turned it into a beautiful show that served as reminder that good times are only sweet because we know the bad ones too.

The first look, charging out at top speed, was a T-shirt reading “In loving memory of New York” paired with pinstripe pants, a business-like start to the proceedings. Slowly, however, things became increasingly surreal. Downtown icon Jen Brill emerged in an oversized belted trench, the beginning of an exploration of all sorts of gigantic shapes, from dresses to a chic-yet-still-enormous romper in black and white satin. Iconic New York designer Andre Walker drew cheers in an outfit that seemed to comprise of oversize pants that started at the shoulders. The fabrics were noticeably elevated this season, which gave their vast, three dimensional designs a new edge when they moved — in the bridal look, the ruffled skirts had a lovely sheen to them.

The show encompassed a variety of archetypes, from denim and leather jackets to shirts and shift dresses. Slowly, however, the mood turned more romantic. Or maybe that should be abruptly? The color scheme went very red — a knee length sequin dress was quickly followed by an explosion of crimson and pink ruffles, and the showstopper, a huge heart, as an instrumental version of Ne-Yo’s “So Sick” played. It was the perfect demonstration of the magic Vaquera is so capable of. We heart NY too.