louis vuitton gets weird
Nicolas Ghesquière closes out fashion week with a bang, in a show that was both apocalyptic and optimistic. The future looks like this.
The spare, beating gong that greeted guests walking through the Louvre to the spring Louis Vuitton show put one in a slightly ominous mood. Hurrying through the courtyard, you could be forgiven for wondering if Nicolas Ghesquière often futuristic mood had turned apocalyptic — it’s tough to be a futurist when there might not be much of a future to look forward to. Instead, Nicolas put on an incredibly optimistic display of fashion which melded the past and present, one of his strongest and weirdest shows to date.
You couldn’t help but wonder if this was a new dawn for the house, especially with the giant video wall at the end of the runway showing musician SOPHIE surrounded by moving clouds. The artist sung a slowed down version of her song “It’s Okay To Cry,” becoming the focal point of the plywood set. Cry we did — rarely has the designer brought such an emotional staging to his shows. We’re more likely to be in space, or in a recreation of the Pompidou Centre, than seeing tears.
The clothes, it seems, were a reflection of this. The designer gave a distinctly 70s edge to proceedings, sending out fitted blazers, frilly blouses, and wide legged pants with knitted, heeled loafers or platform boots. Paired with knitted, sequin tanks and the occasional wide brimmed hat, the effect was nostalgic and carefree (especially when worn with a little handbag shaped like a VHS). Ghesquiere interspersed the more suited looks with dresses that spoke to his prowess with volume (and marvelous weirdness) — one number that combined check and lace with a voluminous up do was reminiscent of photographs of the last Queen of Hawaii, and floral and striped numbers with short skirts and full sleeves had an exceptionally 80s vibe. Ghesquiere closed with two minimal, white dresses that with their clean lines were unlike anything in the show thus far. A clean slate from a masterful designer to close fashion week.
Photography Mitchell Sams
This article originally appeared on i-D UK.