martine rose on her 90s-inspired capsule collection for iconic italian brand napapijri
Having made a triumphant return to the runway during the men’s shows, the designer turns her hand to a reimagining of the Italian streetwear stalwart.
London-based menswear designer Martine Rose has followed up her celebrated return to the runway — held in Seven Sisters Indoor Market during London Fashion Week Men's — with a capsule collection for the Italian casual brand Napapijri. Martine's mainline collection paired tailoring in innovative proportions with silk shirts, ties, and 80s style zip-off windbreakers; this collab with Napa sees the designer focus on the 90s, and that era's blend of high-fashion and streetwear.
"I took inspiration from Helly Hansen, Ralph Lauren Polo Sport, colored denim and Naf Naf," Martine tells i-D of the capsule's references. "I visited the extensive Napapijri archive which had some incredible pieces," she adds. "For me, one piece in particular stood out and became the main point of inspiration for the collection: a Skidoo [anorak] created for an expedition to the North Pole. What I found most interesting about the Napapijri archive was seeing how the fabrications of the pieces have changed and developed. It was an incredible experience to see these archived heritage pieces."
The collection pairs cozy fleece hoodies, tracksuit bottoms, and dungarees with logo straps in cream, canary yellow, and navy blue with layered puffa gilets and bulky, split-side anoraks. Details include large square pockets to the front and logo elastic inner sleeve cuffs.
NAPA by Martine Rose is distributed by SlamJam and will be released later this year.
Text Charlotte Gush