the i-D team's autumn/winter 15 menswear round-up

From London to Paris, it's been a season defined by the dreamers and romantics, realists and provocateurs.

by i-D Team
|
Jan 26 2015, 5:35pm

Craig Green autumn/winter 15

Meeting Rei Kawakubo at the Comme des Garçons Homme Plus showroom with Anders and having literally the most minimal conversation on my life. Also; Girls and scribbles at Raf Simons, Red at Craig Green, Vibes at Paul Smith, Roger Ballen prints at Comme des Garçons Homme Plus. Alastair McKimm, Fashion Director

My highlight was Grace Wales-Bonner's first collection as part of Fashion East, her work is retro inspired, but its still manages to feel very modern. Excited to see what she does next! Julia Sarr-Jamois, Senior Fashion Editor

Givenchy's make up was out of this world and the dia de los muertos theme was straight out of my dark twisted fantasy. OH and Raf...EVERYTHING RAF!  Lynette Nylander, Managing Editor

Raf Simons autumn/winter 15

Thanks for nothing Christopher Shannon, JW Anderson's dandy, pink perverts at Alex Mullins, the Versace silhouette, Gucci dandy, Prada marble, the Calvin Klein Collection silhouette, Thanks for everything Raf Simons, Rick's dicks, Comme Des Garçons music moment, Saint Laurent's beat poets. Max Clark, Fashion and Market Editor

Vivienne Westwood's collection. I want to date her tribe (all of them) and wear their clothes as we run through a forest in slow motion, sun streaming through the trees. Francesca Dunn, Staff Writer

The opposite sides of the fashion coin, the lad-dominated sport look and then the classical sass, were both really powerful this season. Gosha Rubchinskiy's Спорт-y (Sporty, for all non-Cyrillic readers) heroes were donned in slogans, high-waisted tracksuit bottoms and flavoured with such a specific Rubchinskian flavour that you could taste it. It was a manifestation of the designers vision of Russia, masculinity and ultimately, culture that is swept up in intrigue, conflicting ideas of masculinity and sexuality - and it made for a very potent recipe. Then, the other side of the coin was the melancholy, beautifully haunted Comme des Garcons collection that whispered danger, death and utter beauty in a way only Rei Kawakubo's fashion language has the vocabulary for. Bojana Kozarevic, Fashion Assistant 

Louis Vuitton autumn/winter 15

Louis Vuitton's love letter to Christopher Nemeth, which gets better each time I see it and Gosha's international vision of underground Russian youth. Felix Petty, Content Manager

The way in which Raf Simons and Kim Jones took a new generation back to the future in a celebration of their menswear heroes. As Jones paid homage to one of the great unsung heroes of design in Christopher Nemeth, Simons reinvigorated the early spirit of Margiela and Lang, the two heavyweights of today travelled through time, entwining nostalgia with a modern spirit and fresh energy. Both were collections that would instantly be coveted in their own right and if it leads to a little research in to these ghosts of menswear past, tomorrow will be all the better for it. Beyond these two love letters, Craig Green continues to excite and is fast-evolving in to menswear's next hero. Steve Salter, Head of Social Media

The beret hats at Astrid Andersen were awesome. Declan Higgins, Producer 

Head-to-toe tonal looks are one of Italo Zucchelli's signatures at Calvin Klein Collection, and they looked as clean, fresh and strong as ever in 50 shades of grey. Stuart Brumfitt, Digital News Editor

Vivienne Westwood autumn/winter 15

The celebration of personal style and swagger at Junya Watanabe. Rory Satran, Editorial Director, US

I liked Prada's gender-fluid take on uniforms. It was interesting to see her play with a similar industrial minimalism that spawned her first creations for the house: black backpacks made from the same industrial nylon used by the Italian army. Considering they were produced 30 years ago this year, it's almost as if she was coming full circle with this mens collection. Emily Manning, Assistant Editor, US

Credits


Photography Ash Kingston