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      fashion Emily Manning 9 September, 2015

      the a-z of new york fashion now

      What have Riccardo and Marina dreamed up for Givenchy's transplant show? Will Lily-Rose Depp make her New York fashion debut? And where the hell is Kanye? Here's your alphabetical guide to what NYC has in store.

      the a-z of new york fashion now the a-z of new york fashion now the a-z of new york fashion now

      A is for Adam Selman: Last season, Adam Selman's beehive bad girl gang got in a whole load of Female Trouble serving up some serious John Waters vibes. Set designers nailed the clique's schoolyard hang out -- an actual chain link fence complete with stubbed-out cigarettes -- while the cast of catty, chatty ladies made for one of the week's most fun shows. We can't wait to see what Selman has in store for spring, but fingers crossed it's Crybaby.

      B is for Bitch Better Have my Invite: Brace yourselves: Rihanna is throwing a hotel party at The Edition on Madison Ave. It doesn't take too long of a badgal music video binge watch to imagine what that could possibly entail -- gravity-defying strippers, fireworks, many, many blunts. I have hella questions, but let's start with this one: am I going pajamas or full Muppet?

      Photography Kate Owen

      C is for Chromat: Becca McCharen's neon green laser beaming bras caused a hearty chorus of 'YAASS's from her rowdy #frow last season. Since spring/summer 16 marks the Brooklyn-based brand's fifth year anniversary, we're extra stoked to see what McCharen's got up her sleeve both on and off the runway at Chromat's after party, which features sets from DJ Juliana Huxtable and A$AP Mob female spitter Chynna.

      D is for Dress Code: FUR COATS OVER LINGERIE, LIP GLOSS, JERRY HALL SIDE-SWEPT HAIR, SEQUINS, GOLD LAMÉ TURBANS, PATTI HEARST SYMBIONESE LIBERATION ARMY GEAR: so shouts the first few lines of Marc Jacobs' ultimate 70s dress code edict. The designer will host a book launch for the upcoming fashion tome Gloss -- a collection of photography by glamor king Chris Von Wangenheim -- following his show next Thursday.

      E is for Eckhaus Latta: Whether Eckhaus Latta's nodels are stomping on lettuce in triple stacked Skechers or hammering holes in drywall to a live Dev Hynes performance, we're never sure what quite to expect from the bi-coastal brand's experimental shows. With friends like Michael Bailey Gates, India Menuez, and Ally Marzella frequently featuring in the runway lineup, this season's bound to be a highlight.

      F is for Frank Lloyd Wright: It's getting increasingly impossible to predict what Opening Ceremony is planning each NYFW. But it seems the downtown design legends have left Lambos and 40-foot walls of chocolate behind, instead taking their spring/ summer 16 inspiration from the season itself by collaborating with the Frank Lloyd Wright foundation and Edible Schoolyard NYC on -- according to Vogue -- "an elaborate living garden set" inspired by the architect's visions of flaura and fauna.

      Photography Kate Owen

      G is for Gypsy Sport: Harlem label Gypsy Sport might have stolen the show at the first New York Fashion Week: Mens showcase last season, but founder Rio Uribe and his pan-ethnic, pan-gender squad of collaborators won't be sitting out the main event. Pastel pinks, shell embellishments, and bucket -- or kinda cowboy? -- hats reigned supreme at Clarkson Skylight, so who knows what the crew has in store for its Tuesday show slot.

      H is for Hood by Air: After nabbing an LVMH Special Prize and staging his spring/summer 15 show in three globetrotting parts (plus a Pitti Uomo showcase on top of it all) last year, Shayne Oliver has been a little quieter these days. But that only makes us all the more excited for whatever the NYC OGs have planned for Sunday's spectacle.

      Photography Harry Carr

      I is for Instagram: Last season, Instagram counted over 140 million likes and comments on NYFW related content (although approx. 30 million of those were probably just me going ham over Alexander Wang's industrial goth boots tbh). Rather wisely then, the social media platform announced yesterday that it will debut "The Best of Fashion Week Updated Daily By @Instagram" -- a curated selection of NYFW's most exciting content -- on Friday.

      J is for Jenners: We already know Kendall will be kruising down the week's major runways, but rumor has it that Caitlyn could make her NYFW debut with a serious bang: a spot in Givenchy's catwalk crew. It's certain that the trans trailblazer is tight with Donatella after the first lady of Italian fashion swooped in and saved the ESPYs with a custom Versace gown, so it's pretty possible the Milanese matriarch made the introduction to hercrossover campaign co-star, Riccardo Tisci.

      K is for Kitsune: Givenchy isn't NYFW's only Parisian import: Kitsune is heading across the pond and teaming up with Matte to throw a serious banger. Hercules & Love Affair, Kindness, Empress Of and more will be on the decks, so dust off those aforementioned industrial goth boots and let's get live.

      Photography Kathy Lo

      L is for Logos: It's fairly certain we'll see some HBA box logos spangling Shayne Oliver's latest looks, but Hood by Air won't be the week's only logomaniac: the CFDA and WME-IMG have each created their own NYFW logos. The Council's blue and orange redesign nods to New York sports teams (a palette we're sure Knicks super fan Chloe Sevigny is on board with), while WME-IMG went with modernist black and white stacked letters. Find out more about the duelling logos' inspirations here.

      M is for Moses Gauntlett Cheng: The Brooklyn-based design trio that showed its fall/winter 15 collection out of an RV in an active parking garage in Chinatown is getting a bit of a venue upgrade this season: center stage at Spring Studios as a part of VFILES largest show ever tonight. Judging by Instagram, designer David Moses is pretty tight with Lily-Rose Depp-- could the Chanel face be making her NYFW debut tonight?

      N is for Nodels: NYC's downtown creative kids have long doubled as nodels come fashion week, but with the rise of street casting -- from anti-agencies to crowd sourced casting apps -- expect to see a host of unfamiliar faces on even the most major runways.

      O is for Osborne and Yi: Earlier this year, Donna Karan stepped down from the helm of her eponymous empire and confirmed that Public School's design duo Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne would take the reigns as DKNY's creative directors starting with spring/summer 16. The season has officially arrived, and we're anxiously awaiting to see what the hometown boys will bring to Karan's legendary NY label as well as their own.

      Photography Kate Owen

      P is for People's Designer: Jeremy Scott and Miley Cyrus might have let their freak flags fly at a rainbow'd out VMAs, but next week, the dream team will make its big screen debut in Jeremy's new documentary, The People's Designer. In addition to Cyrus, the doc -- which premieres in New York next Tuesday -- bills appearances from Rihanna, Moschino campaign star Katy Perry, and ASAP Rocky. But if we know Jeremy (and we do) we're also counting on a cameo from longtime muse Devon Aoki and some cartoons tossed in for good measure.

      Q is for Queer: Marc Jacobs' perfectly punctual shows have long marked NYFW's closing. but Verge: Queer New York Fashion Week is proving a pretty solid finale as well. In addition to showcasing eight queer collections, the largest LGBT-focused fashion week event series will also see panel discussions on fashion as social activism and diasporic politics.

      Photography Jason Lloyd Evans

      R is for Riccardo Tisci: If all eyes weren't on the Givenchy creative director when he tapped godmother of performance art Marina Abramovic for his transplant NYFW show, they certainly will be now that he's made 800 tickets totally public in one of the industry's most populist moves yet.

      S is for Sandy Liang: The 24-year-old designer might draw inspiration from Chinatown grandmas, but judging by her recent Instagram snaps, Sandy Liang's Canal St chic is taking a turn to the skate park this season. A few months ago, she shared a shot from a studio visit at local skate brand 5boro and yesterday posted a picture of her very own deck captioned 'SS16.'

      T is for Trans Models: Even if Caitlyn Jenner's Givenchy rumors fall flat, it's still shaping up to be a landmark season for trans models. Although she's proven a familiar fixture on Adam Selman and Eckhaus Latta's runways, spring/summer 16 will see Hari Nef's first turn on the catwalk since signing to major agency IMG in May.

      U is for Uber: Here's hoping you've got 5 stars, because September in Manhattan still means like 90 degree heat. Slicked back sweat might be the runway's hottest hair story, but definitely doesn't feel as chic when you're hauling from Spring to Pier 94 in this humidity.

      Photography Kate Owen

      V is for VFILES: Now a regular feature of NYFW's opening night, the image sharing platform turned retail store has again remade itself as a fully fledged fashion force. In addition to Moses Gauntlett Cheng, David Ferreira, Namilia, Kozaburo Akasaka, and Feng Chen Wang will all take their turn on the largest VFILES catwalk ever at Spring Studios tonight.

      W is for Willy Vanderperre: The Belgian photographer and longtime Raf Simons collaborator will launch his Instagram-inspired compendium 635 -- a limited edition collab with Dover Street Market's resident literary gurus IDEA Books -- tomorrow at Rei Kawakubo's Lexington St. outpost. We're definitely marking Vanderperre's commemorative t-shirt in the "must cop" column.

      X is for X marks the spot: Marina x Ricardo, Opening Ceremony x Frank Lloyd Wright, Willy x IDEA -- New York Fashion Week is all about celebrating the most exciting and unexpected creative collaborations. We can't wait to see what other partnerships come to life this season.

      Photography Kate Owen

      Y is for Yeezy, you there?: We know Kanye West is busy plotting out a presidential campaign or something, but seriously, what's the NYFW deal? Last season, the Louis Vuitton Don's collaborative adidas Originals presentation dethroned all time champ King Karl Lagerfeld as's most viewed fall/winter 15 show with a whopping 4.5 million clicks. You can't just leave us hanging, Ye!

      Z is for Zana Bayne: New York's first lady of leather and one of our 10 emerging designers to watch will show her Bossa Nova collection at the Jane Hotel's rooftop bar next Tuesday. Following a covetable collaboration with Marc Jacobs last Valentine's Day, we're excited to see what sexiness Zana will be serving this season. 


      Text Emily Manning

      Photography Kathy Lo

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      Topics:fashion, nyfw, new york, new york fashion week, nyfw ss16, spring/summer 16, ss16, fashion month

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