matthew miller autumn/winter 15
Torching everything before it, Matthew Miller sent out his flame resistant army for tomorrow.
"I just want to destroy everything," Matthew Miller begins backstage, a smile stretching across his face. "It's my nature, you've seen me after a show, I tear everything down and start again," he adds. It's true, I've watched him take great pleasure in ripping mood board images down and clearing his studio space to begin work on a new season. "It's just a process of life, everything we do is decay and destruction," he adds. In Miller's hands this bleak message has possibility because like Rei Kawakubo, he's at home in beautiful chaos. He is equally inspired by romance and decay and delights in rebuilding destruction.
Labelled Resistant, the word was stitched into the very fibres of this flame retardant, clashing collection and echoed throughout the design process. In a collection of extreme focus, everything was considered, nothing was out of place "We were looking at modernist furniture and the lines are incredible. As I was keen to bring in fabrics of interior design, I had to bring those lines in and to not deviate from them, it had to be consistent. That control is so difficult, focussing on something for six months is a bit insane," he adds with another smile. "It took a lot to work with these upholstery fabrics but I wanted to challenge myself," Miller concedes as he grabs trainer from his collaboration with Novesta, a pre WWII footwear brand from Slovakia, proudly showing off the same fabric. However difficult it was to work with, he had tremendous fun in ripping, shredding and tearing them before reforming them in his state of beautiful, but controlled chaos. "We're so used to seeing them on sofas but I wanted to see how they would work on the body, a new texture on life." In Miller's revolutionary hands, the mundane can become rebellious in an instant.
Text Steve Salter
Photography Ash Kingston