tom ford's timely tribute to tailoring
This season Tom Ford opened NYFW with a collection of faux-fur, luxurious leathers, and sharp suiting, all designed to "enhance the wearer's lives".
Photography Mitchell Sams
Honestly there’s no better way to start off fashion week than with Tom Ford, in a dusky pink carpeted space at the Park Avenue Armory. Who puts down pink carpet in this miserable weather? Tom Ford, obviously, because in between the fashion press and assorted celebrities trampling upon it in their severely unsuitable footwear, he can have an army of people make small sweeping motions to keep it clean. He also only serves clear drinks, so spillage is less of an issue.
This season, Ford’s mood was encapsulated by the divine Italian model Mariacarla Boscono, who has traded her natural black hair for shocking auburn locks — ala longterm Ford muse Julianne Moore. Boscono emerged in and pink velvet blazer and purple satin pants, which shimmered as she did her signature, very serious, runway walk, her vertiginous heels being driven with immense feeling into the aforementioned pink carpet. Yes, one can walk in high heels with great feeling, don’t ask.
Ford played with this contrast of textures and colors throughout; outrageous fur hats worn with satin blouses, silver scarves against beautiful matte polo necks, and men in entirely iridescent suiting contrasting to just about everything else we’ll see on the runway this week. Lineisy Monteiro looked particularly cool in a black hoodie worn under a faux-fur hat — it was the most modern expression of Ford’s singular, glamorous vision.
The finale (how exciting to see a proper finale, how divine) saw the models, including Caroline Trentini and Mica Arganaraz, take to the runway in the designer’s triumphant eveningwear. It appeared to be incredibly relaxed, monochrome gowns in jersey, until you saw the pale pink chain link at the models’ backs, a nod to Ford’s love of the unexpected reveal (never forget the iconic Gucci G-string). It was, however, the tailoring that sent the strongest message — this was Ford doing what he does best, making men and women feel elegant, secure, and beautiful. Fans of 90s dressing need look no further than Tom Ford, who designed it the first time round and still does it better than anyone.
This article originally appeared on i-D UK.