marc jacobs has the final word on dressing up
The final show of NYFW was its defining moment, reflecting a trend for heading out in your best.
Photography Mitchell Sams.
The Marc Jacobs show, as has been noted, was exceptionally late, which somehow made it all the better. By the time that the Yves Saint Laurent-inspired fantasy hit the runway, the press was already in an 80s state of mind, replete with editors running out to catch their flights back to Europe and a lot of chat about how this kind of behavior hadn’t been seen since 2007. Which honestly, it hadn’t -- Marc has been excruciatingly on time for the decade since. When the lights finally went down, the audience erupted into applause — when was anyone last so excited for a fashion show?
It was deserved. From the first look, a pale yellow slip and sparkly tights worn by Thais Borges, it was clear we were in for a stellar Marc show, one that reminds us of his expansive and charming talents. As evidenced by last season’s enormous shoulders and wide brimmed chapeaux, the designer has been in a Saint Laurent spirit for a more than a minute now, paying lavish tribute to a time when fashion, the sort on the runways at least, was fun. Pierrot collars, veils, huge fabric flowers, crystal chokers — it was an encyclopaedia of extravagance. In place of last season’s striking, primary colors, we had a palette of pale pastels and neon sorbet shades. Kiki Willems looked winning in a blush pink skirt and tank top, with a huge cummerbund in polka dots, followed by a parade of jackets in homage to the Chanel classic (in shocking pink however). As the show progressed, the shapes became even bigger, with the aid of feathers and tulle — an orange and pink dress more exciting than any awards show fashion in recent memory.
There was something touching about the riot of color, the glamor, the excitement. Designers often talking about ‘making clothes for real women,’ or ‘creating a wardrobe,’ or ‘making clothes women want to wear.’ What this can often mean is something drab. As evidenced by the flock of young designers making fabulous party clothes in New York, however, getting dressed up is having its moment. Trust Marc, forever playing on his youthful obsessions, to tap into this spirit, and then elevate it. These are the clothes we want to wear.