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take an exclusive look inside gosha rubchinskiy’s spring/summer 17 world

See the Russian designer’s take on classic sportswear here first, as he shoots his latest collection on street-cast teens.

by Felix Petty
|
Sep 13 2016, 1:50pm

Gosha Rubchinskiy's spring/summer 17 collection was presented in three parts: a traditional catwalk show at Pitti — staged in a Mussolini era factory — and a photobook and film the designer shot on the same location. "I found a Gosha space here in Florence," Gosha explained to i-D Fashion Features Director Anders Christian Madsen after the show, of transplanting his vision to Florence. "I feel like this old tobacco factory is home. A piece of Russia, or a piece of Gosha, inside Florence." It represented that mix of east-west cool, nostalgia, longing, and youthful tribalism that define Gosha's fashion vision.

The collection itself married Italy and Russia's two sartorial histories together.

Eschewing the traditional menswear world of Pitti's peacocks, or an easy reference to Florence's Renaissance splendor, Gosha instead wove an alternative take on Italian fashion by marrying the classic sportswear of Fila, Kappa, and Sergio Tacchini with his own upbringing in a Post-Soviet world, where such brands were suddenly available after years of scarcity. It was a comment, if oblique, on the tensions, crises, and connectedness of the world today.

For the lookbook, Gosha continues to draw his young acolytes into his world — casting his associates and Instagram finds, alongside longtime associate and fellow Russian, Lotta Volkova. Together circumventing agencies and shooting his collections on the people who'll actually wear it, the duo reach towards authenticity. Gosha and Lotta take the Post-Soviet underground they came from, and create a skewed, alternate take on globalization.

Related: Gosha Rubchinskiy tells the truth of youth

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Text Felix Petty