sibling autumn/winter 14
A goth rock soundtrack, crystal bugs and models getting trippy (literally) over trailing cobweb-knit gowns, the SIBLING (just SIBLING, no 'Sister by...' anymore) show welcomed us to the witching hour!
It was a dark, lush look back at Cozette McCreery, Sid Bryan and Joe Bates' teenage years, with an in-depth investigation of all the knit techniques in the world but this show was about more than just the clothes... Adwoa Aboah got hearts racing in a hot-pink crochet bikini, before artist Phoebe Collings-James and coltish i-D covergirl, Amra Cerkezovic got tangled in floor length, ripped-knit dresses and abandoned their stilletto's.
There was a lot of glitz and sparkle, what were your references for that?
Joe: The crystals, along with the print, was a direct reference to our starting point, which was mine and Cozette's Irish parentage. Those were directly from my mum because she loved her garden, it was that literal. That's where the floral print and the crystal bugs came in. It was actually a photograph of her and my dad on the invite.
Cozette: We always have a bit of family going on. It's mainly to do with how you remember things from when you were a kid or a teenager. It's not a literal interpretation of anything, it's just remembering a beautiful colour or an image of a parent in a picture.
Joe: Mental snapshots.
What about all the cobweb style, ripped knits?
Joe: The whole process was an investigation of knit itself. We wanted to make it as multi-layered as possible.
Sid: Using as many different techniques as possible.
Joe: Bringing those technique's - century old traditions - into the 21st century. So the really worked pieces had a mixture of hand-machine work, knitting, crochet, tiny embroidery and massive embroidery.
Did you do it all yourself?
Joe: Each one of those worked pieces had at least 100 hours put into them.
Sid: There was super fine crochet with a 1mm needle, loads of hand crochet. We do it in-house ourselves. Lots!
Joe: All the techniques are really rooted in craft and then dragged into the now - the combination of stitches and the scale of the stitches.
Is it important that it is hand-crafted?
Joe: The whole collection isn't, there are pieces that were absolutely digitally created from start to finish. What's important is to show, because our whole collection is knit, is the whole range of techniques and the versatility of the fabrication.
Sid: The intarsia sweater - the opening look - is ten colour hand intarsia made in Scotland, which is kind of unheard of.
Joe: It's Cozette's portrait done by Freud, a pixellated image of her face.
Tell us about the soundtrack?
Cozette: Teenage bedrooms!
Joe: It was Sisters of Mercy. Because we were looking at our parentage, we had to have some teenage moodiness in there. It wouldn't be complete without it!
Text Felicity Kinsella