donatella versace opens up about versus after anthony vaccarello's departure
In a wide-ranging new interview, the Italian fashion icon discusses the future of Versus and weighs in on the future of fashion weeks.
With Anthony Vaccarello moving to Saint Laurent to take over from the departing Hedi Slimane (who, rumor has it, could be moving to Chanel once Lagerfeld retires), questions remain about the future of Versus — the line Donatella designed before the death of her brother led to her taking over the main Versace job in 1997.
Speaking to WWD about the future of the brand's sister line, Donatella says she already has a (nameless) designer in place. The Versace matriarch also reveals that the brand will return to its aesthetic origins, and that Versus may continue to show in London. "I'm evaluating holding an event, show, or presentation in London," she explains. "Maybe in September, with 30 looks. Vaccarello had a precise image, but now I want to go back to my own Versus when I was young, the first collection shown in New York, when Gianni gave it to me. It's so fresh, it's a capsule and helps to divide my take on Versus from Vaccarello's. I returned to my origins."
As well as the future of Versus, Donatella spoke on the future of the catwalk and seasons and her determination to keep her men's and women's shows separate — unlike Gucci and Burberry, for example. "I don't believe in gender mixing," Donatella says. "There are women and men; my fashion is totally different, with the same mentality [behind the design process], but different."
She does, however, add that she would, ideally, like to change the show calendar, describing herself as being fed up with the current fashion system. "The calendar is in shambles; I am fed up with this system. I think the business model of luxury brands is about to change in a radical way. We are all thinking about what to do. My solution is not to do men's and women's together in the same show. With one show, you would have to use the same fabrics; I don't want to do that. I like more freedom."
Text Felix Petty
Image via Instagram