komakino is king of the ring for fall/winter 16
Though its most recent collection was inspired by Italian anarchist press, Komakino's fall/winter 16 presentation was New York to the core. Staged last night at Overthrow -- a boutique boxing club on Bleecker and Bowery where chandeliers swing above the ring -- the London-based brand had 2 Bros Pizza and cold cans of Bud on hand while its boys went toe-to-toe sporting the seriously knockout collection.
Continuing his exploration of industrial subcultures, this season saw designer Federico Capalbo turn his exacting eye to Italian anarchist press. Since the brand's launch in 2009, Capalbo has dealt deftly in the individualism of punk politics; but like the Joy Division song his brand shares its name with, his output isn't a blistering assault of wild energy or maximalism. Its strength is in its quiet precision.
Graphics remained subtle, but strong points this season. The custom illustrations (among them a black cat and headless urinating business suit) popped up in a variety of colors across different garments -- sewn as knee patches on pants and screen-printed on pocket tees. Words like "contropotere," Italian for counterpower, appeared on slouchy jackets and split seam tees. But Capalbo's silhouettes took root not in the uniforms of early 80s post punks; his shapes mined style tribes from the 40s and 50s.
While a skinhead staple -- the MA-1 bomber -- has become near ubiquitous on recent runways, Capalbo left voluminous nylon to the rest (save one great cape). Instead, his tailoring was neat and tidy. Clean lines carried across the collection -- from midnight blue trousers to a really lovely satin overcoat. Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee.
Text Emily Manning