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in paris, it's all about tits and tiaras

Saint Laurent sent embellished rainboots and tiaras down the runway on Monday, as the designers of Paris flexed the season’s underwear-to-daywear muscle and got into the festival spirit.

by Anders Christian Madsen
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Oct 6 2015, 5:25pm

Trends for spring/summer 16: lingerie worn as day and eveningwear, plastic worked into garments, and all things fun and girly. Throw it all in a cocktail shaker, and you either get the kinkiest season in a while—or all the elements of a festival. No, the festival wardrobe is not a trend this season (sorry, Vanessa Hudgens) but it's kind of curious how colorful tents and mud were the setting for the Hunter show in London and the Céline show in Paris, and how on Monday night in the City of Lights, Hedi Slimane made a big thing of wellies and tiaras in his collection for Saint Laurent. It was that 'worked natural' festival look, forever synonymous with Sienna Miller and Kate Moss: practical meets impractical, rags meet riches, and urban princesses get stuck in the mud.

Saint Laurent spring/summer 16

In fact, Slimane's new proposal for his ever-growing young (but really ageless) clientele was a very wearable day-to-day wardrobe, coats casually thrown over dresses and such. Come to think of it, his shows aren't far off the festival experience themselves, what with the loud rock 'n' roll, Courtney Love in attendance, and a fangirls at the front, press at the back mentality. That underwear motif that's been flowing through the season was right up the Slimane alley, and he went for it in a big way, first in that deshabillé festival wardrobe sense of transformable clothes: a camisole worn for bed doubling as a top for day—then, in the surprise finale of formalwear, a series of floor-length evening dresses that were virtually nightgowns and barely covered the nipple. They were terrific.

Saint Laurent spring/summer 16

The festival theme corresponds to the season's idea of adapting impressions from travels and so on, a kind of touristy approach to fashion that's really quite gap year, which just happens to fit in perfectly with parts of the festival-attending segment of the world, namely those aforementioned urban princesses of areas like Chelsea. The Sloanies would love the Sacai collection, which took its point of departure in Chitose Abe's trademark fun with hybrids but added bandanas and t-shirts featuring motifs from the gay clubs of 80s' New York. Then came the opulent military elements - gold epaulettes and hussar embroidery - which would give any self-respecting girl on the KR heart palpitations. (It had the same effect on the rest of us; so beautiful!)

Sacai spring/summer 16

Don't bring your Hermès to a festival if there's mud, but do observe the nifty way in which Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski - now on her second season for the equestrian house - worked the patterns of the famous Hermès scarves onto dresses, effectively offering those gap-year-taking, festival-going West London girls a new way of wearing of their favorite accessory. Janet Jackson, currently on a vocal rest that forced her to cancel two Las Vegas concerts this week, was in the audience, as was Jane Birkin looking exceptionally festival chic in a pair of Converse All-Stars and an umbrella by her side, and Kris Jenner, who's no stranger to getting down and dirty at her son-in-law's gigs—festival or not.

Hermès spring/summer 16

On that note, Julie de Libran put on an afternoon soiree at Sonia Rykiel where the show notes came with a cocktail menu and waiters were serving blue drinks. It was everything the house should be: glam sequin dresses, colorful printed furs, and a couple of little flouncy French country dresses, very naughty and super on season point in their fusion of evening, lingerie and, well, rural codes. Stella McCartney - immensely popular at festivals - didn't go for those references, but chose instead the season's other motif, the luxe ghetto-sporty vibe previously seen at Chloé, which was impeccably West London as only McCartney masters it. 

Read more i-D fashion month coverage here.

Credits


Text Anders Christian Madsen
Catwalk photography Mitchell Sams
Backstage photography Jason Lloyd Evans