marni autumn/winter 15
Consuelo Castiglioni makes a statement of vibrant colour in Florence.
Marni's womenswear and menswear have always differed in their loudness. Whereas the former has proposed a pretty extreme wardrobe of vibrancy in prints, patchworks and furs, the latter has had an almost intellectual discipline about it, which has sometimes bordered on the minimal.
Whether it was the magnificence of Florence or the fact that there was suddenly a runway involved, Consuelo Castiglioni's biggest statement at Thursday's Marni show at the Museo Marino Marini - the headliner at this season's Pitti - was the meeting between her female and male aesthetics. A cast of fair-skinned boys walked among sculptural modern art pieces to the dreamy trance of Boys Latin by Panda Bear in the kind of cartoonish fur gilets you'd expect to see in a Marni women's show. They were joined by flared trousers - something the 70s wave of right now really wants us to re-embrace - and patchwork tops that entirely echoed the fashion week street-style suitability of Castiglioni's vision.
But the hot male nerd, who has made Marni's previously so subdued luxe jumpers and muted check coats his uniform, shouldn't despair: there was plenty of the 60s tailoring - or should that be early 70s? - and dusty brownish jackets that bought Marni a ticket to Pitti in the first place in there, so the architect students of tomorrow can still head to the drawing office without getting papped on the way.
Text Anders Christian Madsen