garage, grime and goth collide at nasir mazhar spring/summer 16
Plus, the designer talks his first shoe collab.
It was black across the board at Nasir Mazhar's spring/summer 16 show as the designer refined what he does best: an urban uniform that speaks of garage, grime and suped-up cars. With Mad Max: Fury Road one of the movies of the moment, you couldn't help but think how cool a cast of his muscular, harnessed (by backpacks) action men (and women) would look on the big screen - prepared for anything with their zips, straps and black camo. It wasn't all hardcore though; there were still some flamboyant flourishes with the grey and white rubberized pleating that was seductively wet look, the side-slits that made basketball shorts almost like skirts, and above all, the head-to-toe ruching on the final tracksuit (we wanna see Skepta in that, pronto).
The branding was more toned down this time round. "For three seasons we've been getting rid of it - well there's still loads, but it's more subtle," Nas explained backstage as grime MC Jammer whizzed round on some sort of Solowheel, relatives fondly kissed him and the models (diverse as ever and many returning season upon season) got a selfie with the designer.
The trainers were all his this time round. Whereas in the past his looks have been styled with Nike Air Max, here we saw the beginning of Nasir Mazhar's own line of footwear, produced and distributed with Slam Jam. "It's a new thing for us, a first time. I'm well excited about that." If they can catch on with his growing group of devotees in the way that his signature Bully cap has, then Nas is laughing.
Women's looks appeared in the show because his last London Fashion Week collection was cancelled after his dad passed away. Some girls were dressed for the dancehall in DIY bandana-tie creations, some redefined the beach look with frilly bikini bottoms + suspenders + skirts and one looked like a gorgeous goth Aaliyah. It's doubtful the men's and women's will show together again, which is a shame, because their solidarity was touching, and even though there were extreme forms of masculinity and femininity on show, there was a shared strength to them all.
Text Stuart Brumfitt
Photography Jason Lloyd Evans