2014 fashion flashback: august
Gareth Pugh to New York, Christopher Bailey sells Burberry shares and Nicole Farhi quits fashion for sculpture.
Perhaps it was the announcement that Rihanna was to become Rihanna Inc. or Christopher Kane's rejection of Scottish Independence, which saw a mad-month of ups and downs during those long hazy summer days.
But, according to Gareth Pugh, that's just what's needed to keep up momentum in the modern day. "It's good to light a fire under your bum every once in a while", explained the English designer, following the announcement of a move from Paris to New York Fashion week this season.
Fires were firmly lit for Gyo Yuni Kimchoe, following their triumphant win of Fashion Scout's Merit Award for S/S15 and the chance to show at LFW. There was also good news for Topshop too, who continued on their path to global domination following substantial expansion in China. Others also realised the potential of the Eastern markets and their tech-savvy shoppers, with Carolina Herrera launching a new invite-only app that would let clients buy directly from their phones.
Whilst some pumped money into expansion, others raised the white flag. Condé Nast announced the sale of Women's Wear Daily to Penske Media, whilst Victoria Beckham revealed that some 600 of her personal garments were to go under the hammer for charity. Burberry CEO and Creative Director Christopher Bailey also sold shares at the Brit-based fashion label, pocketing somewhere around £4 million. Nicole Farhi announced that she was never to return to fashion, following a career departure into sculpting.
If it was fashion-artisan handy work that you wanted to see, The Masters was probably the place to do so. The project from London megastore Selfridges saw 12 key designers with a definable aesthetic create capsule collections, alongside window displays to match. With the likes of Thom Browne, Paul Smith and Yohji Yamamoto, the designs were joined by an exclusive set of films created by Marie Schuller.
Photography Dennis Schoenberg
Styling Marcus Ross
[The Beat Issue, no. 233, July 2003]