escape to the rooftops with anne sofie madsen and berlin’s coolest kids
While shooting her fall/winter 16 lookbook in Berlin, we caught up with the young Danish designer to discuss designing through difficult times.
After graduating from the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts in 2012, Anne Sofie Madsen launched her own label. What followed were numerous awards and, finally in 2014, her first show in Paris. But after suffering from a turbulent few months, she swapped Copenhagen for Berlin. While there, the designer shot the photos of her fall/winter 16 collection with a cast of Neukölln's coolest kids. Now, before Anne returns to the French capital next week to present her new creations, we meet to discuss the differences to her previous work and what freedom really means to her.
What is different between this collection and the previous ones?
For me, fall/winter 16 is quite an unbalanced collection. It was a really turbulent period for the brand, for everything around us and everyone involved. I think this is reflected in both the collection's visual and emotional traces. This uneven and irregular feeling was, at first, extremely frightening and disturbing, but then it became very attractive. I am really drawn to failures and everything falling.
How would you describe the collection in just a few words?
Failure as a mode of becoming.
Why did you decide to shoot in Berlin?
Esben, who shot the lookbook, and I were doing a performance last winter at M.I. We met Erik, our stylist, and went to have lunch with him the day after. We know Copenhagen so well and felt it would be more of an adventure to try something different. Then this summer, Esben and I were showing at SOUVENIRby in June and it was just the perfect time to do the shoot.
What are the main differences between Copenhagen and Berlin?
Berlin is so spacious — obviously in actual square meters but also in terms of spirit. It's amazing.
How did you find your cast?
Erik and Esben did the casting — it's great, right? I already knew Nina, Marie Lea, and Lukas; I had meet Poul and Marc before. It means a lot to me that the cast are somehow related to the project and the garments.
Who is the women on the woven top?
It's just a drawing that had been lying in a folder on my desktop for ages. She actually ended up on the woven blanket by mistake.
You shot on a rooftop, which makes me think of freedom. What does freedom mean to you? Does it play a role in the collection?
For me, the rooftop symbolizes freedom, but also a longing — a longing unknown future and a yearning for utopia.
On September 28, the spring/summer 17 show will take place in Paris. In October, we will have a show in Tokyo!
Text Alexandra Bondi de Antoni
Photography Esben Weile Kjaer
Styling and casting Erik Raynal
Hair Kalle Eklund / Lundlund
Models Paul Ferens, Valerie Mevegue, Lukas Hofmann, Nina and Romy Kettiger, Nele Maria, Marc Elsner, Ronald Rose, Marie Lea Lund, Henry McMaster.