nasir mazhar autumn/winter 15
“Quality chillwear, protective roadwear and smartened clubwear” were the order of the day in a collection that called for pride in appearance.
Nasir Mazhar wanted to create "wardrobe essentials of a man relentlessly obsessed with looking fresh" for autumn/winter 15 and the biggest case in point came midway through the show with two white sweat suit looks that were the epitome of gleaming street "luxury". The thickness of the jersey, and the demand it'll make to be kept clean, spoke of a wearer who indulges in comfort and knows how to look after himself (and probably smells sexily of fresh washing powder). They were the epitome of the "24/7 pride in appearance" Mazhar was chasing. The first of the looks came with zip detailing on the pants and a hoodie that sat perfectly high, framing the face. The second was more clean, low-key.
Mazhar's other intention was to create "quality chillwear, protective roadwear and smartened clubwear in matching tops and bottoms [to] defy the definition of tracksuits." The biggest break from the typical trackie were the liquid metal material early looks and the shiny, almost upholstered late looks (the waistcoats brought back dapper early 90s clubbers), but there were slightly more trad trackies that will please less risky dressers. They came in all black, or else panelled in a Polo Sport colour palette of white, black and electric blue.
An aggressive colour combination of black and acid green recalled drum'n'bass party flyers and a new NAS logo looked like it had come off a monster subwoofer in the back of a suped-up hatch-back, hinting at the designer's love of club culture and the British rudeboy.
Shouts of applause in the audience, backstage celebrations and selfies that the mostly street-cast models were requesting with Mazhar, showed what a loved character he is, and how much he's connecting with a core audience. That, coupled with his Vitoria's Secret collaboration and work with musicians from Lady Gaga to Skepta, shows he's creating wider commercial appeal. But the reason why he's such an important voice on the current British menswear scene was summed up best in his notes. It's about "a more confrontational celebration of a vein of British culture often grossly overlooked, or marginalised by the media."
Text Stuart Brumfitt
Photography Ash Kingston