casely-hayford autumn/winter 14 menswear
Stirring up the past to imagine their future, London menswear design duo Casely-Hayford delivered the most accomplished debut LC:M will ever see.
Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford by Ben Weller
Strolling through subcultures like they were born to do it, father and son design duo Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford presented their very first show for Autumn/Winter 14 LC:M. Prints, formal sportswear and lots of layers referenced skinheads, rudeboys, punk and post-grunge. We joined the ever-charming Army of Me to chat musical influences and keeping it in the family.
What was it like showing for the very first time?
C: A surreal experience for me as I had grown up watching my dad's shows in the 90's and so it kind of felt like I had come full circle to actually walk out at the finale with him.
What were your references for the collection?
J: Our ongoing obsession with British sub-cultures past and present. We wanted to create a visual language that felt relevant to this generation... so we referenced past prominent sub-cultures and fused them with social references that encapsulate this moment in time such as the De Stijl art movement and contemporary sportswear.
How is it working closely with your dad?
C: We're in quite a unique position as father and son fashion designers as we often observe the same subject from different ends of the generational spectrum. It's creates a convergence of ideas and a layered approach.
What do you both bring to the table?
C: Everyone thinks that I bring the contemporary element to the brand and him the classicism, but more often than not it's the other way round. Our desks are side by side in our studio and every garment comes about from a conversation between the two of us.
You listened to Drenge in the studio - does music always influence how you design?
C: Yes, I'd say music is the biggest influence, Joe came up with the soundtrack for the show. He's totally obsessed with music. Last season he was listening 90's Hip Hop. The season before he's was listening to rave and this season all he's been playing is post-grunge metal.
J: There's always music in the studio and it evolves over time. With each new season, we find ourselves listening to new sounds that inspire the spirit of our designs.
Which is your favourite piece from the collection?
C: The De Stijl inspired navy overcoat from Look 17 with the contrast white horizontal stripes
J: Look 22 The distressed black knitwear inspired by Cornelia Parker's sculpture 'Anti-Mass'.
Who did you have in mind when designing it?
J: A free spirit... someone with something to say.
Who would you recruit for your 'Army of Me'?
C: An army of individuals
Text Francesca Dunn
Photography Ben Weller