how adam selman spun fashion gold from john waters for fall/winter 15

Adam Selman tells i-D how he brought the bad girls of John Waters's Female Trouble to life with a sassy fall/winter 15 collection.

by Rory Satran
Feb 14 2015, 1:00am

Photography Kate Owen

Although New York designer Adam Selman fell asleep in the middle of classic John Waters film Female Trouble, the first half was enough to inspire his adorably naughty fall/winter 15 collection, shown this afternoon in Chelsea. The chainlink fence and light trash vibe of the set was totally 70s Baltimore, and the girls were all sass and attitude à la Divine and Cookie Mueller. We chatted with Adam before the show about how the collection came to be. "I was dying over the beginning scene where they're all hanging out in the hallway," he said. "That's the girl. She's a bad girl, she never will change."

Adam's beehived girl gang — including Tumblr princess Hari Nef — wore pastel and black gingham separates, sporty-sexy knitwear, pencil skirts, and black socks with Manolo Blahnik spectator pumps. It's always a relief to see models talking on the runway, and these ladies chatted and hung off the fence like the hottest schoolgirls you've ever seen.

Details included rick-rack edging and bow-embellished knitwear. "It's a take on arts and crafts, but you won't be able to see that," said Adam. The bow print was inspired by a little girl's bedding in a Larry Sultan photograph (as he admits, "It's a little fucked up."). Developed with Sprout by HP, the print was very techily created by scanning in actual ribbons.

The beauty muse? Cookie Mueller meets Goldie Hawn in Texas Flower, another of Adam's favorite movies. Those fab beehives and the spit curls on the cheeks were created by hair legend Jimmy Paul. As Adam says, she's a "bad girl who's in trouble with a rotten disposition, but a really pretty face."

The whole thing was mercifully loose and light. "I'm poking fun at myself and poking fun at fashion but in a subtle, easy way," said Adam. "A lot of fashion is not fun, so the collection and starting point have to be. It's really important that comes through."

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Photography Kate Owen