inside thom browne’s spring/summer 16 selfie cube
Today the designer proved there are infinite ways to do the suit.
photography kate owen
Thom Browne has made his career in fashion out of one outfit: the suit. Or rather he's made a career out of reimagining that one outfit over and over and over again. It sounds boring, but never is, especially when it comes to his dark, cinematic shows.
For his presentation today - during the first round of the revived New York menswear shows - Browne showed his collection within a small mirrored cube. The six sides hemmed in models and their observers, while also reflecting them into infinity - and providing infinite opportunities for trippy Instagram shots. It was a perfect embodiment of the designer's genius for taking one and making many - in this case, transforming 27 looks (all grey three-pieces) into an unlimited army of sinister suits.
The event (was it a presentation? an art piece?) gave strong Matrix vibes. A high-shine metal office desk sat in the center of the room and the models wore ominous dark glasses. The tailoring was unnerving, too. Jackets ran long, well past the last button, as if seen in a funhouse mirror or distorted in some Wachowski brother CGI feat. And as usual, the pants played with proportion. Cut from a range of subtly modulating grey fabrics (check, solid, houndstooth) they had ankle-flashing turned-up cuffs. Silver tie clips hammered home the Agent Smith mood.
If the presentation was an exploration of infinity, it was equally about what's beyond. Browne just announced that he is setting up his own tailoring facility, which his longtime in-house tailoring guru Rocco Ciccarelli will run. "It's going to allow us to have greater control of the quality and to elevate that part of the business," he told the crowd of selfie takers.
Text Alice Newell-Hanson
Photography Kate Owen