marques'almeida channels fiona apple for spring/summer 16

How the LVMH Prize-winning duo got back to their roots this season.

by Felicity Kinsella
|
Sep 23 2015, 9:05pm

​Photography Jason Lloyd Evans

This may be Marques'Almeida's first collection since winning the LVMH prize, but Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida have never been ones to get egotistical with just how successful they are. In fact this, spring/summer 16 the most "Marques'Almeida" Marques'Almeida collection yet. Because they won big (€300,000 to be precise) the designers felt it even more important to go back to their roots. And what they've always been rooted in is finding inspiration in the girls that they surround themselves with, and obsessing over that one muse per season.

This season, the duo found its muse in the ever-truthful lyrics of Fiona Apple. "We've always been really obsessed with Fiona," Marta told us backstage post-show. "We got really obsessed with singer-songwriters and that whole idea of someone who is creating things in their head, it's all so personal. When you listen to it, it's all so raw. I think that's the frame of mind we were in this time. We just wanted everything to feel really personal and raw." Watching her music videos and doing a bit of Facebook stalking, the designers came across scenes of Apple one minute having dinner with her friends, dressed in a huge gown, and the next wearing a Nirvana t-shirt. Inspired, they created a collection filled with frills and ruffles, paper-thin chiffon and their staple frayed denim, patchworked into halter necks, asymmetric tops and low-rise jeans. It was perfect.

The inspiration Marques and Almeida find all the time in the girls around them was palpable not only in the show invite (an image taken from the brand's last campaign series, photographed and modeled by friends) but also in each of the girls sitting front row, clad head to toe in M'A, and the models' bedhead hairstyles. "There was one of our interns with this hairstyle and we took all the pictures of the line up on her and were like, 'we need to do this fringe on all the girls!'" Paolo told us after the show. 

As always, Marques'Almeida is less about the clothes, the materials, the techniques, and ALL about the attitude of the girls the delectable duo see wearing their garms. In Apple's song Criminal, she sings, "It's a sad, sad world when a girl will break a boy just because she can." Well, we imagine that's the kind of world the Marques'Almeida girl inhabits, only less sad!

Read more i-D fashion month coverage here.

Credits


Text Felicity Kinsella
Photography Jason Lloyd Evans