i-Dhttps://i-d.vice.com/en_ukRSS feed for https://i-d.vice.comenWed, 14 Nov 2018 09:48:33 +0000<![CDATA[watch céline dion liberate babies from the gender binary with glitter]]>https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/mbyew4/celine-dion-glitter-advert-gender-binary-childrens-clothesWed, 14 Nov 2018 09:48:33 +0000We’ve finally figured out why Céline Dion ended her Las Vegas Residency after eight years at Caesars Palace: she’s been plotting to overturn the gender binary. How? By breaking into children’s hospitals, and sprinkling black glitter on newborn boys and girls, to the point where their symbols of oppression (pink and blue male/female symbols on the wall) are turned into black and white plus signs. The babies are also magically outfitted in new digs, touting a “new order.” A genderless order, we suspect. At least, that’s according to the video for her gender-neutral kids clothing line, CELINUNUNU, that dropped today. In the video, Céline with an é is quickly found by security guards, chased through the hospital and arrested, before uttering these last words: “Guys relax, easy. I’m Céline Dion.”

The brand is a partnership between Céline and the co-founders and designers of the kids fashion brand nununu, Iris Adler and Tali Milchberg. “CELINUNUNU liberates children from the traditional roles of boy/girl, and enables younger people to grow on values of equality with the freedom to strengthen their own power of personality based on mutual respect,” their website says, in case you were wondering what on earth is going on. Hopefully the line for adults is forthcoming.

This article originally appeared on i-D US.

mbyew4Nicole DeMarcoJack SunnucksNewsceline dionGender NeutralCELINUNUNU
<![CDATA[naomi campbell and her mum are too cool for xmas dinner in burberry's new film]]>https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/wj35kb/naomi-campbell-burberry-christmas-filmWed, 14 Nov 2018 09:46:43 +0000Burberry just released a short film debuting its holiday collection, which also marks the British house’s first Christmas campaign under artistic director Riccardo Tisci. Close Your Eyes and Think of Christmas opens with a fabulous, trench-wearing M.I.A., stirring her tea, whilst seated with a pensive, paper-reading Matt Smith at a café table. The video then pans out in a whirlwind through frosted windows and Burberry train cars — with seats upholstered in the new Peter Saville monogrammed print — to a festively-clad Kristin Scott Thomas. Fast forward to mere seconds later when the stars come together to share a curious Christmas dinner — one in which Naomi Campbell and her mum appear not to participate in, as their eyes are glued to the TV screen in another room where Naomi’s splayed out on the floor. The two are, however, modeling looks from Burberry’s collaboration with Vivienne Westwood, on sale December 6. The entire thing is punctuated by “Carol of the Bells” and the ASMR-like rattling of precious crystal chandeliers.

“I wanted to portray a more realistic British Christmas, but still shot through a fantasy lens,” artist and photographer Juno Calypso said. “The campaign takes you through all the key seasonal rituals, both good and bad. That’s what brings us together.”

Watch the film below.

This article originally appeared on i-D US.

wj35kbNicole DeMarcoHannah OngleyNewsNAOMI CAMPBELLHOLIDAYm.i.aburberryRiccardo Tisci
<![CDATA[behind the lens of californian photographer cameron mccool ]]>https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/yw7dqb/cameron-mccool-photography-guideWed, 14 Nov 2018 08:30:00 +0000 From rising stars to industry heavyweights, i-D meets the photographers offering unique perspectives on the world around them.

Photographer Cameron McCool has a remarkable ability for catching that intangible air of liberation and spontaneity of partying and communicating it in a still image. Completely self-taught, his imagery has an authenticity that photographers rarely achieve. Taking in everything from quiet nights drinking to the sort of unbridled hedonism that extends way into the next day, Cameron’s pictures are often a window into a world of Californian agony and ecstasy. When so often the energy of a night is completely betrayed -- the image too considered, or the subjects too far-removed -- his lens fits seamlessly into the night.

Growing up in a town close to Los Angeles, Cameron first started shooting pictures at music gigs he’d been making flyers for. Since then, his expansive archive has taken in many of LA’s young and beautiful musicians, off-duty models and actors, shooting editorials for the likes of Vogue, Numero and Interview, and contributing a portfolio of new rising actors in LA to our latest issue, The Superstar Issue. But before you check that out, we caught up with Cameron to talk about his career so far.



Photography Cameron McCool

yw7dqbRyan WhiteClementine de PressignyPhotographySOkoSunflower beancameron mccoolselah marleyphotography 101photography guide
<![CDATA[mowalola: the nigerian designer setting london on fire with her seductive fashion]]>https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/bjezva/mowalola-nigerian-designer-joyce-sze-ngWed, 14 Nov 2018 08:00:00 +0000 This article originally appeared in i-D's The Superstar Issue, no. 354, Winter 2018

“Sex. More Sex. More Sexy,” Mowalola Ogunlesi says with a laugh, when asked to give a hint about the aesthetic direction of her next collection. It will be her first since dropping out of Central Saint Martins, and her first on the London Fashion Week schedule. “More sexy” will be quite a feat, considering her BA graduate collection was pretty sexy. Titled Psychedelic, and taking inspiration from 70s and 80s Nigerian rock music, it included tight leather trousers cut low with lacy lingerie peeking out, nipple-grazing crop tops that skimmed the body and glistening abs. It was a riot of intense colour and sensuality, a joyful exploration of African male sexuality, cut free from the stereotypes that so often cloak it.

The industry stood up, took notice, and immediately wanted to know more about this young designer. So Mowalola dropped out of her MA at CSM and decided to focus on building her brand instead. This year she’s been selected to join Fashion East, and she will show her first standalone collection as part of their menswear showcase in January 2019 at London Fashion Week Men’s. “It’s been really exciting,” she says, “I’m just figuring out how to do everything. They don’t really teach you that at CSM. I guess they’re working more on your mind than on building your business skills.” Currently working on all aspects of setting up her own label, Mowalola is doing her own PR and taking business classes, though it’s hard to fit it all in. “I don’t really know how to do everything at once, like do the designs, do the business... and also have a life,” she says. She is 24 after all – you need time to party, have fun, and enjoy yourself. “I’m not going to look back on my twenties and be like, ‘Yeah you were building your brand, but then you didn’t do anything fun.’”

We’re in her flat-slash-studio in Dalston with her friend Trey Gaskin, who she met at CSM – he’s a multi-hyphenate who acts as fit model, muse, life coach and studio assistant for the young designer. ”Trey’s amazing, he’s helping me to plan things and is working on the email side of stuff.” Answering emails can basically be a full-time job, and Mowalola could do with the help.

models wearing mowalola shot b joyce sze in nigeria


Photography Joyce NG
Styling Mowalola Ogunlesi

Hair Ferdinands Hair. Make-up Deto Black. Lighting assistance Chuku Ndubisi. Photography assistance Oluwafunminyi Edward Kayode. Casting director Dafe Oboro. Models Models Idowu Alison. Olasunkanmi Abayomi. Temitope Oloto. Smart Song. Sani Muhammed. Blessing Mbanefo. Muzybha Baruwa. Benita Ango. Tabiloba Subomi. Sharon Ubong. Taiye Atunde and Temi Ogunsola. Special thanks to Adenike Ogunlesi, Ade Ogunlesi, Lanre Ogunlesi and Modupe Ogunlesi. Rose. Mr Tony. Mr Wale and Mr Samuel.

Models wear all clothing Mowalola Ogunlesi

bjezvaClementine de Pressignyi-D StaffFashionCentral Saint Martinsfashion eastfashion east menThe Superstar Issuemowalolamowalola ogunlesi
<![CDATA[how an episode of 'black mirror' became a creepy reality]]>https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/nepbdg/black-mirror-artificial-intelligence-roman-mazurenkoTue, 13 Nov 2018 15:09:23 +0000On 28 November 2015, a 34-year-old man called Roman Mazurenko was hit by a speeding Jeep in central Moscow. He was rushed to the nearest hospital but died of his injuries. His best friend Eugenia Kuyda arrived just before he passed, just missing the chance to speak with him one last time.

She spent the next three months collecting text messages that Mazurenko’s friends had stored on their phones and handed them over to the engineers at her software company Luka. After some computer wizardry, involving algorithms and artificial intelligence, Kuyda’s engineers had developed an app that would let her speak to Mazurenko once again. It sounds like an eerie science fiction story and that’s because it originally was…

Two years earlier, Charlie Brooker’s nightmarish TV series Black Mirror had given Kuyda the fictional version. Having made a name for itself with all too realistic stories of a dystopian future, the show’s second series began with an episode that challenged the very nature of death in the digitalised world.

Be Right Back tells the story of a woman called Martha, struggling to come to terms with the death of her social media-addicted boyfriend Ash – who also died in a car accident. She’s introduced to a service that can resurrect Ash as a digital avatar by harvesting his social media posts and text messages.


Although reluctant at first, Martha begins to use the service on her laptop, chatting to digital Ash, who appears as a sort of instant messenger. The more comfortable Martha becomes, the more digital Ash evolves. He goes from app to voice assistant, to robot within the first 30-minutes. But, as Ash develops, it soon becomes apparent that it’s not the real thing. He’s just a collection of data; an echo of thoughts posted online that cannot think freely or for itself. Almost like a digital zombie.

Ever since George Romeo’s classic horror, Night of the Living Dead, the Zombie genre has given us simple guidelines for bringing the dead back to life. Usually, it’s a virus or some sort of radiation exposure, but the Black Mirror version – though it doesn’t strictly define it as a zombie – hit upon an idea for resurrecting the dead that’s unnervingly real.

Real, because the technology is actually available; artificial intelligence and formats like machine learning, where an algorithm reads and translates data or information into actions, are widely used in society and business. It’s powering everything from smartphones to medical equipment. It’s the same technology that’s enabling self-driving cars and voice assistants such as Alexa and Siri on your iPhone.

Eugenia Kuyda is fully aware of this because her company, Luka, specialises in building AI-powered software, mostly chatbots, but when she watched Be Right Back, it left her with mixed feelings, particularly with how far it went.

"She found herself going through the endless text messages Mazurenko had sent her over the years she felt like there was something to work from. She realised she could build a different kind of bot based on Mazurenko, one that simply mimicked his speech patterns."

“It’s definitely the future and I’m always for the future,” she said. “But is it really what’s beneficial for us? Is it letting go, by forcing you to actually feel everything? Or is it just having a dead person in your attic? Where is the line? Where are we? It screws with your brain.”

For two years, Kuyda had been building her tech company, and its first real chatbot was for online retail. But when she found herself going through the endless text messages Mazurenko had sent her over the years she felt like there was something to work from. She realised she could build a different kind of bot based on Mazurenko, one that simply mimicked his speech patterns.

“On his Facebook page, there really were just a few links,” she says. “I went on his Instagram page and there were no photos. The only thing I could do to remember him was to go to our messenger history, scroll and read it all. That was the closest I could get to feel him. I felt I still had a lot to say, but it’s just kind of weird we don’t have a ritual to say any of that stuff.”

Having taken some 8,000 lines of text from friends and family, the app was shared with them first. Many found the likeness uncanny and felt Kuyda had hit upon something special; chatbots offer a service, either commercial, like bots on retail websites, or novelty household devices like Alexa, but the Roman bot offered a digital ear for users to say something private – in this case, something to Mazurenko that they needed to let out.

This idea, for a chatbot to confide in, has seen the same technology that underpins the ‘Roman’ bot turned around to create Luka’s new app, ‘Replika’, which is an AI like Roman, but one you can build yourself by texting it. The more you chat, the more it learns to be you. Meaning that when you die, you’ll have a Black Mirror-style bot avatar ready to go.

Describing the episode in the book Inside Black Mirror, Brooker seemed to realise the importance of data, long before Mark Zuckerberg was selling yours for advertising. He had an epiphany about digitised memories in the mid-90s after his former flatmate died in a diving accident.

“In the days when you still had limited numbers you could store in a phone, sometimes you’d have to delete things,” he said. “So, I was going through the list, and there was this guy’s name and number. I thought I should delete that, but suddenly I couldn’t. To do that would’ve felt disrespectful, callous and wrong. It was a memento, so I should keep it and find someone else’s number to delete. It was a very ‘Black Mirror’ moment. A lot of Be Right Back stemmed from that: the notion of a souvenir that you know is not real, but which reminds you enough of somebody that it’s painful.”

Today, we call these ‘painful souvenirs’ data, and we’re leaving an unprecedented amount of it online. We post endless pictures and Stories on Instagram, and we tweet multiple times a day. But, while Kuyda and her team only needed text messages to build a digital Roman Mazurenko, the Ash from Black Mirror is created using a wider selection of online communications. His text, his images and even his voice. This is something of a controversial subject within the tech industry at the moment. Earlier this year Google unveiled a creepy voice assistant that could book appointments by mimicking a human voice, simply by adding ‘erm’ between sentences.

A Swedish funeral home caught the attention of the press this year when it announced plans to use voice recognition software and virtual reality to create digital replacements of the dead to help people grieve. “What we would like to find is the voice,” says Charlotte Runius, the CEO and founder of Fenix (pronounced Phoenix). “The goal is to be able to make a conversation, one that feels like a real conversation, but in the beginning, it definitely won’t be able to cover all aspects of human speech and be quite limited to certain topics, like what you would talk about at breakfast for example.

“We have this vision, that when you are old and lonely because your spouse has passed away, you can put on your virtual reality goggles and go have breakfast with them. Of course, you know it’s not for real, but we see it more like a computer game really.” Although still in the planning stage, Fenix has been looking for developers and engineers to help build this haunting service, which they think is more important than making a chatbot that’s just based on simple text alone.

But Kuyda’s text-based chatbot has come uncomfortably close to making Black Mirror a reality. Since announcing the existence of the Roman bot in a post on Facebook, millions have downloaded it to their iPhone. “It’s still a shadow of a person, but that wasn’t possible just a year ago, and in the very close future we will be able to do a lot more,” Kuyda wrote.

nepbdgBobby HellardClementine de PressignyCultureAITechnologyroboticsblack mirrorCharlie Brooker
<![CDATA[virgil abloh is unveiling a new art installation in milan]]>https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/d3bvxx/virgil-abloh-spazio-maiocchi-art-installation-kaleidoscopeTue, 13 Nov 2018 14:25:03 +0000Founded by Carhartt WIP and Slam Jam, Spazio Maiocchi is a new art-design-fashion space in Milan aiming to “shape new cultural experiences”. Which makes it the perfect place to play host to the work of Virgil Abloh, a similarly boundary-crossing figure, whose work relentlessly shapes new cultural experiences.

A trained architect, Virgil is most famous for his work as a fashion designer, with his own label Off-White, and as Creative Director of menswear at Louis Vuitton. On top of that he’s also a DJ and an artist. His latest project sees him collaborate with Milanese art magazine Kaleidoscope for their autumn/winter issue, which will debut at Spazio Maiocchi on 30 November.

Virgil Abloh at Crown Hall Chicago
Photography Richard Anderson

Virgil will be presenting a special edition of Kaleidoscope’s new issue, which will include a T-shirt and signed artwork, as well as an installation and billboard commission. He’ll also unveil a manifesto for “streetwear as the next global art movement” -- proposing the youth fashion movement as “a way of making across disciplines, and ultimately a new Renaissance breaking the barrier between high culture and real life”.

The space will also be exhibiting a retrospective of work by the incredible photographer Collier Schorr, a new work by French artist Camille Henrot -- fresh from her takeover of the Palais de Tokyo last year -- work by the sculptor and Grace Wales Bonner collaborator, Eric N Mack, and a performance by Polish-Lithuanian queer arts collective, Young Girl Reading Group.

It will all run for just one night only and will be open to the public from 7pm to 9pm. Book your tickets to Milan now.

Read more

d3bvxxFelix PettyRyan WhiteNewsArtFashionMilanVirgil AblohCollier Schorrcamille henrotspazio maiocchieric n mackyoung girl reading group
<![CDATA[mowalola and robyn lynch join the fashion east gang]]>https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/gy7gjw/mowalola-robyn-lynch-fashion-east-menswear-autumn-winter-19Tue, 13 Nov 2018 13:30:00 +0000Last season, Art School and Rottingdean Bazaar graduated from the menswear section of the incredible talent incubator that is Fashion East, joining an illustrious roll call of just about everyone who has creatively pushed British menswear forward over the last 15 years; from Kim Jones to J.W. Anderson, Martine Rose to Grace Wales Bonner. And now we can reveal the latest designers to join this illustrious list -- Mowalola Ogunlesi and Robyn Lynch. They’ll be joining Stefan Cooke, who is returning for his third season with Fashion East.

“With both girls, I love the back stories behind their collections and how confident they are in telling them,” Lulu Kennedy, Director of Fashion East explains to i-D, of what attracted her to the two young designers. “There's real passion and pride and love of their culture -- and I'm so into designers being true to themselves.” Both designers have already marked themselves out as ones to watch with their graduate collections at CSM and Westminster respectively. Mowalola for her sexy, psychedelic and gender-fluid take on Afro-futurist fashion, Robyn Lynch for her subtle plays on colour and fabric that reference her Irish upbringing, in greens, oranges and whites, and traditional Irish knits.

Robyn Lynch Lookbook Fashion East
Robyn Lynch

“Mowalola's CSM collection stood out a mile,” Lulu says. “Such a singular vision, super sexy and intelligent, the casting was perfect and backstage her whole scene was friendly. I was like ‘Damn, I love this girl’. Robyn's graduate collection was an equally hardcore single vision and controlled in its execution -- it felt fully formed for a student collection, in a way that I hadn't seen since Craig. I also love looking through her research — it's really on point.”

This also marks the first season that Fashion East are dropping the MAN branding from their menswear show, rethinking the way we categorise gender in fashion. Both editions will now simply be known as Fashion East. January’s incredible lineup couldn’t be a better way to ring in the new era. “The line-up is special and I know we can expect an incredible show,” Lulu sasy. “True individuality, full on flavour, elegance and wit. Getting to work with my heroes -- it’s a dream scenario.”

Watch more

gy7gjwFelix PettyFrankie DunnNewsFashionArt Schoolfashion eastrottingdean bazaarlfwmstefan cookeA/W 19mowalolarobyn lynchautumn/winter 19london fashion fashion week mens
<![CDATA[what will the future of the creative industries look like?]]>https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/wj35zq/le-book-connections-event-londonTue, 13 Nov 2018 13:20:47 +0000For almost four decades, Le Book has been an indispensable resource for those working in the creative industries to connect with other like-minded professionals. Once a printed publication chronicling the most talented in the biz, in the digital age Le Book has grown into a global online community for designers, artists, marketeers and more to congregate and collaborate.

Kicking off tomorrow, i-D is partnering on their annual Le Book Connections event in London. Offering talks, panel discussions and networking opportunities, the two-day event will take place at the Truman Brewery off Brick Lane, with talks from marketing and creative specialists from a variety of backgrounds in the fashion, luxury and media business.

Day one will be all about branding in the influencer marketing realm, while day two will focus on a brand storytelling. Check out the schedule and sign up to the events below:


Wednesday, 14 November

NICOLA DAVY, Director of Global Consumer Engagement | JO MALONE
PASCAL DUVAL, Head of Creative | ASOS
SHINI PARK, Influencer & Founder | CUBE COLLECTIVE
LUCY WILLIAMS, Influencer | FASHION ME NOW, discussing her collaboration with MISSOMA
Moderated by YKONE


7:30pm LE BOOK + i-D invite you to RE-CONNECTat EIGHT MEMBERS CLUB, 1 Dysart Street , EC2A 2BX

RSVP HERE / *connections badge required for entry*

Thursday, 15 November
JOE ALEXANDER, Director, Creative Director | BOILER ROOM
EMMA HARMAN, Managing Director | WHALAR
MIKE O’KEEFE, Vice President, Creative | SONY MUSIC
FABIO RUFFET, Creative Director | BACARDI
Moderated by NELLY GOCHEVA, Global Editorial Director | T BRAND STUDIO, THE NEW YORK TIMES



For an overview of CONNECTIONS as well as this year’s participants, please click here.

wj35zqi-D StaffRyan WhiteNewsmarketingeventLe Bookle book connections
<![CDATA[meet the female and non-binary djs diversifying berlin's dance floors]]>https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/zmdevw/no-shade-female-non-binary-dj-collective-berlinTue, 13 Nov 2018 12:15:49 +0000Berlin’s nightlife scene is still dominated by techno — and Berlin’s techno scene is still dominated by white males. Here to inject some much needed diversity, vibrance and queerness into the city’s club culture is DJ collective No Shade. No Shade’s mission isn’t just to contradict norms, it’s to provide aspiring DJs with the equipment and guidance they need to succeed in the industry. Beyond operating as a collective, No Shade includes a training program, in which members are given intensive lessons and access to CDJs. No Shade then throws a monthly party where DJs can showcase their talent.

“We wanted to focus on female, trans and non-binary beginner DJs for the mentoring program, as a local attempt to help even out the current gender imbalance within the DJ world,” says co-founder Linnea Palmestål. “Another big motivation for me personally was the frustration of my own limitations as a beginner DJ, with no access to new equipment for regular practicing and no real mentor for learning CDJs properly.” In one of the most musically competitive cities in the world, No Shade is committed to promoting the success of underrepresented demographics. i-D spoke with the No Shade founders and collective members about their various sounds, career aspirations, and hopes for the future of Berlin’s dance floors.


Age: 30. What do you do? Co-founder, DJ, overall mommy. Where are you from? Tallinn, Estonia. What's the most difficult aspect of your job? The most challenging perhaps would be to maintain the integrity and personal touch, the heart of the project as we grow bigger. How do you hope to see No Shade grow in the coming years? I hope we keep challenging ourselves as DJs and producers and continue offering something new and fresh to the local scene, and to stay relevant. I'd like to see us spread out and create new contacts and partner groups around the world to work with. What's the best bit of advice you would offer to aspiring femme/non-binary/trans DJs? All the classics: don't second guess yourself, don't let other people rain on your parade, do you, practice, improve, experiment, create your own journey. From a more professional angle: bring a positive attitude, answer your emails and don't get lazy, because there's someone around the corner ready to snatch your gig if you do. No Shade.

This article originally appeared on i-D US.

zmdevwCassidy GeorgeHannah OngleyBerlinMusicdjelectronicqueerNightlifeFemmeinclusiveno shade
<![CDATA[vivienne westwood takes on fracking with america's cup protest tees]]>https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/3k9qdw/vivienne-westwood-fracking-protest-tees-americas-cupTue, 13 Nov 2018 11:10:43 +0000Vivienne Westwood has turned her attention to New Zealand for her next anti-fracking campaign, in particular the 2021 America’s Cup to be hosted in Auckland. Vivienne and her son Joe Corre have designed a protest T-shirt as a part of a campaign to have petrochemical company INEOS banned from sponsoring the UK’s cup team.

The campaign aims to highlight how pro-fracking INEOS’s environmental practices are at odds with the code of ethics of World Sailing, the world governing body for the sport of sailing. Australian Wikileaks lawyer Jennifer Robinson wrote an open letter to World Sailing for the campaign, saying, "Your decision to permit the participation of any team sponsored by INEOS undermines World Sailing’s commitments to respecting and safeguarding our environment."

This isn’t the first time that Vivienne has taken on INEOS over fracking, earlier this year during London Fashion Week she held a protest outside the company’s headquarters. The activist and designer has also targeted other pro-fracking companies this year. Just recently she was seen at a protest dancing to ABBA.

The graphic slogan tees will be sold from kiosks outside the America’s Cup Village in Auckland and the campaign website in the lead up to the event.

Photography by George Hughes

This article originally appeared on i-D AU.

3k9qdwMitch ParkerBriony WrightenvironmentNewsFRACKINGprotestNEW ZEALANDVivienne Westwood