tom ford's criminally sexy eveningwear
As the 'Babylon Berlin' soundtrack played, we watched a parade of romantic gowns and tried not to be distracted by Henry Golding.
Photography Mitchell Sams
Tom Ford was in a decidedly teutonic mood this season, sending his models out to the leisurely sounds of the Babylon Berlin soundtrack. For those not aware of the cult Netflix show, it follows detective Gereon Rath through the backrooms of 20s Berlin, in a case involving intrigue, pornography, and large doses of Weimar era chic. So far, so Ford. With their slick, shiny crocodile jackets and headscarves, the models, in black and rose pink, looked like particularly filmic spies. In Ford’s world, however, this is simply business as usual. “I always begin each collection as a reaction to the previous season,” he said in a statement after the show. “I feel that fashion has somehow lost it’s way a bit and it is easy for all of us to be swept up in trends that have lost touch with what women and men want to actually wear. So I did not want to make clothes that were ironic, or clever but simply clothes that were beautiful.”
Ford is downplaying his legendary skill as a tailor and dressmaker — the clothes may have been simple in spirit, but they were complex in conception. Lace spilled from the hem of skirts, a beautiful black tuxedo had blush lapels, and cutaway panels revealed Ford’s ongoing obsession with sexuality. The menswear was similarly romantic, with a parade of tailoring in russet tones, perfect for the men sat front row — think Crazy Rich Asians star Henry Golding, and Game of Thrones’ Michiel Huisman (star of the most unforgettable sex scene on HBO, the home of the TV sex scene). These were clothes to make one feel gorgeous whatever your bone structure (although Golding’s is enviable). “I became a fashion designer because I wanted to make men and women feel more beautiful and to empower them with a feeling of confidence,” said the designer.
The show reached its crescendo with a gorgeous leopard print passage, most notably worn by Joan Smalls in a leopard bustier and matching biker jacket, worn over a floor-length fringed skirt. Of course, Ford is master of the evening, or at least dressing like dusk is a permanent mood. “There is a drama to the sensual silk jersey caped evening dresses and the metallic men’s tuxedo jackets and yet they are worn with ease,” he said, and indeed there was drama, as Mica Arganaraz and then Gigi Hadid sauntered out in their capes, Hadid even giving a sedate twirl at the end of the runway. As Ford emerged for his bow, the applause reached the mauve tinted rafters of the Park Avenue Armory. The collection left the audience, in the words of Ford himself, with “a feeling of knowing that they looked their best and could then present their best selves to the world,” if only we too were outfitted by Tom Ford.
This article originally appeared on i-D US.
Photography Mitchell Sams