Photography Mitchell Sams

per götesson’s message in a bottle for autumn/winter 19

Sunday’s show saw the Swedish-born designer balance creative expansion with a faithfulness to tradition.

by Matthew Whitehouse
07 January 2019, 9:56am

Photography Mitchell Sams

Fitting that Per Götesson should cite “ships in a bottle” as inspiration for this, his autumn/winter 19 show, which took place at the British Fashion Council’s official show space on Sunday afternoon.

The Swedish-born designer has previous form with bottles: an early project, Poetical Functions, featured garments made with pockets designed to hide wine on the bus.

There’s even something vessel-like in the way he made his way here, across the water, from a little town in southern Sweden; “[coming] from a simple place to a big complex city, like London” as he put it in yesterday’s show notes.


Mostly though, you can see that “ship in a bottle” idea in the kind of half-very traditional, half-incredibly technical form that his autumn/winter 19 show took: one that evoked the same kind of how-did-he-do-that curiosity as that most famous of nautical puzzles.


While this collection was marked by the signature experimentation we’ve come to expect from the brand -- notably the digitally rendered jackets, constructed in collaboration with Kathy McGee of Digitoile and created by scanning the entire body -- there was also a clear expansion into tailoring that felt inspired by tradition: the double-breasted Prince of Wales check blazer; the clever draping of snake-hipped trousers. Here was a designer experimenting less with new forms, and more with old -- to no less effect.


“The collection celebrates artisanal making making,” Per said in the accompanying show notes. “There is empowerment in craftsmanship, and the care that is taken over something very fragile.”

per gotesson
london fashion week mens
autumn/winter 19