the i-D team's london fashion week round up

As another season of London Fashion Week draws to a close, we reflect on the highs, hits, surprises and looks that defined autumn/winter 15.

by i-D Team
25 February 2015, 3:05pm

"Marques'Almeida, Ryan Lo and Simone Rocha all blew me away this London Fashion Week. Marta and Paulo's explosion of decadent colour, Simone's thrilling use of tapestry, tulle and lace and Ryan's debut solo show all demonstrated a new level of sophistication that cemented their positions as future stars of the industry." Holly Shackleton, Editor-In-Chief

"Mary Katrantzou. The duffle coats, clash of colours, textures and shapes were a thrill in an otherwise sensible season. This is what my alter-ego would wear." Sarah Raphael, Acting Editor

"It was a relief to see LVMH's hard-earned money well spent at Thomas Tait with his strongest collection to date, proving with a little support our young designers can grow from strength to strength." Alastair McKimm, Fashion Director

"Simone Rocha and Marques'Almeida were the shining lights of LFW for me. Watching these young designers develop each season is an absolute pleasure. Also I want to wear it all particularly the Marques'Almeida red jeans and Simone's lace up flats....dreamy." Ger Tierney, Executive Fashion Editor

"I loved J.W. and Thomas Tait but the highlight has to Marques'Almeida. I loved all the brocade looks at Marques'Almeida, it was really exciting to see what felt like the next chapter for them. They showed clothes that girls would like to wear." Julia Sarr-Jamois, Senior Fashion Editor

"Keith Levene of Public Image Ltd said that if he did something wrong or made a mistake and it sounded wrong, then he'd repeat it until it sounded right and that's when he knew he had something new. And because the 80s was basically the best period in time in the history of the world ever... J.W. Anderson was the best basically…" Max Clark, Fashion and Market Editor

"After Giles, Julia asked me when I'd found time to design, style and walk a collection. That's how personal that show felt. Absolutely loved it. But the best look of London was that suit at Preen, sliced up down the sleeve and trouser with a thick ruffle poking out. Fantastic." Anders Christian Madsen, Fashion Features Director

"Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida are setting the template of what new generation London designers should be doing. Past seasons saw them lay their foundations and they've got their signature in denim but yesterday showed them stretching themselves and showing what else they can do, building out the world of Marques'Almeida and with it the girl who wears their clothes. And if that's who the Marques'Almeida girl is, I want in!" Lynette Nylander, Managing Editor

"Every bit as lush and fantastical as he always is but darker than usual, this season Ryan's girls were gothic, romantic Russian ballerinas and ice queens of their own hearts like Elsa from Frozen. The dream! And Marques'Almeida obviously - their thigh-high boots and rich, metallic brocade corsets were sexy and gorgeous." Felicity Kinsella, Assistant Editor

"Roksanda Illincic's use of colour continues to take the breath away with a high-saturation sucker punch (and the venue reminded us of the romantic idealism of the municipal sports hall). The orgiastic dresses from Christopher Kane were banging too." Stuart Brumfitt, Digital News Editor

"The last four days proved once more that London's rising stars shine the brightest in fashion's sky. Focussed yet fabulously fun, the likes of Molly Goddard, Shrimps, Faustine Steinmetz and Le Kilt are all crafting ever enticing world's. However, it was two LVMH Prize-nominated talents in Marques'Almeida and Ryan Lo who surprised the most, both turning promise and potential into a covetable reality. With a highlight heavy final day, the industry reluctantly waved goodbye to London with excitement buzzing in their ears and fresh names on their lips." Steve Salter, Head of Social Media

"It has to be the intoxicating jewelled world of Ryan Lo, the way it shifted between doe eyed kawaii cuteness hidden behind veils, and the darkness of velvet and faux fur without over doing either, and both finely balancing each other. Honourable mentions to Gareth Pugh's drama, Ashish's sex appeal and Faustine Steinmetz's denim reinvention." Felix Petty, Content Manager

"Shaggy fur at Shrimps and life painting at Molly Goddard <3" Tish Weinstock, Editorial Assistant

"Christopher Kane was incredible but I personally was blown away by Ryan Lo this season, I think simply the way the clothes moved was beautiful and showed an exciting amount of experimentation from a young designer who we should feel very lucky to have working in London." Declan Higgins, Associate Producer

"J.W. Anderson's 80s party girl collection had the element of surprise, which is always a thrill. And only he could make a pink, ankle-length leather coat look subtly cool." Rory Satran, Editorial Director, US

"As someone whose uniform consists of knee length Simpsons t shirts and who only eats pizza, my pick might seem a little strange, but I've gotta give it up for Simone Rocha. Her breed of femininity is so forward thinking and her takes on romance so intriguing. She's developed such a strong, compelling voice and I'm always excited to see what she has to say." Emily Manning, Assistant Editor, US

Catch up with the rest of our autumn/winter 15 coverage here.


Photography Piczo, Simone Rocha autumn/winter 15