calvin klein's latest collection revisits the best of the 90s
Francisco Costa’s spring/summer 16 show combined greatest-hits satin slipdresses with a new, pop print.
There's an iconic 90s image of Brad Pitt and then-paramour Gwyneth Paltrow looking radiant in a glistening, bare white slipdress. It is a look that launched thousands of imitations, and was surely on the inspiration board for Francisco Costa's spring/summer 16 collection. Look 1 set the theme with a cream satin-y slipdress a la Gwyneth (and Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, and Kate Moss), paired with another 90s staple: sneakers. Then came season-standout Rianne van Rompaey in a similar gown in virgin white. Costa's message is clear: relaxed, luxe separates with a grunge-era bent.
Although slipdresses - in white, beige, black, and print - were the stars of the show, there was no shortage of fluid separates. Pants were worn long and loose, which felt cool and very right now. Julia Nobis in off-white silk trouser and a ripped silky sweater was a vision. Trenches were also flowing: these are pieces that one can picture on any woman, of any body type or age.
A surprise came in the form of a color-on-dark computerized floral print, that graced dresses, pants, and sneakers. This seemed to be a conscious bid to update, and appeal to the Instagram-happy millennials just discovering the brand thanks to Kendall Jenner (in the front row this season) and the racy #mycalvins campaign.
Text Rory Satran
Photography Jason Lloyd Evans