tim coppens’ street smart fall/winter 16

On the second day of men’s shows, the Belgian-born designer united a diverse clutch of subcultural style tribes.

by Emily Manning
05 February 2016, 2:10am

If the NYFW: Men's shows have a common thread, it's that the city's designers are living in the here and now. From Public School's nylon jumpsuits to Tommy Hilfiger's slouchy PJ fits, both established and emerging brands have approached the menswear runways with a sharp sense of what's happening out on the street. Tim Coppens decided to take this immediacy one step further: tomorrow, a capsule collection of tees and sweats featuring graphics from last night's fall/winter 16 show will be available online.  

That graphic -- the word "ACID" emblazoned in a bold NASCAR-like typeface -- was just one of the youth tribe signifiers mixed up in Coppens' cultural iconography. MA-1 nylon bomber jackets and thick wool overcoats covered mock-neck sweaters and tees featuring super-simple athletic stripes. Worn with slouchy tailored trousers, these looks gave a military-meets-Madchester vibe. 

In addition to that enviable outerwear and 70s punk plaid moments, style tribes saw their style codes reflected in Coppens' details. Small embroidered swallows in classic tattoo style perched on shoulders of jackets and sweaters, while larger space shuttle graphics were stitched across coaches' jackets and joggers. The designer's classic pieces -- bombers and parkas -- were reimagined with techier fabrics and lace-up techniques. His mixed gender street-cast crew all walked in creeper-sneaker hybrids, sharper in shape than a certain singer's ubiquitous footwear collaboration. 

The collection not only reflected what kids are wearing, but how they're wearing it. Tight turtlenecks were bunched up under hoodies for a street-chic feel, jackets were half-zipped or hanging off the shoulders, and many looks were paired with supersized statement backpacks produced in collaboration with Eastpak -- the American brand's latest runway appearance in a long line of fashion partnerships including Christopher Shannon, Nicomede Talavera, and Raf Simons. 

Fittingly, Coppens' finale of dusty pinks, rich caramels, and deep navys wasn't a single-file procession. His tribe -- however diverse their looks -- marched together in unison. 


Text Emily Manning

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