lou dalton recreates rave memories for spring/summer 16
In a collection that played on her own coming of age moment, Lou Dalton managed to both distort and refine her rave memories. This was rave hedonism through Lou’s lens.
photography jason lloyd evans
"It's a time that I lived through and the scene was so far removed from what I had grown up in, it opened my eyes," Lou admits backstage. "However, I was conscious that the guys I partied with have grown up now, I just wanted make beautiful clothes that would remind you of a certain time but not in a nostalgic way," she explains. Each season, Lou stitches elements of herself in each collection, but by drawing on a time of her own enlightenment, spring/summer 16 feels that bit more personal.
"The trigger was emotional. It was sparked by watching the recent repeat of the Joy Division documentary on BBC4, late one night in the studio. I remember going to the final days of that movement and it was such a brilliant time," she explains. "I grew up listening to Happy Mondays' Bummed, Wrote For Luck is an anthem in my archive of music, it says so much to me, 'I order a line, you form a queue.'" But the collection wasn't drenched in nostalgia and Lou doesn't craft fancy dress. "It's a different time now," she concedes. "I didn't want to do dress up and I didn't want to do comedy, it had to be personal to me."
"Ultimately, I wanted something incredibly light and we began working with a mill who specializes in lightweight, technical fabrics. Cerrutti sponsored us once again and we worked on a silk mix that's almost like a parachute fabric. It had to be fresh and stripped back, a celebration of my contemporary sportswear. It had to be relevant and moving forward, today."
The collection follows Christopher Shannon's Marbella foam party and Alex Mullins' Balearic fantasy. Despite feeling decidedly British, this still felt like an escape. "To succeed in fashion you really have to devote yourself so there are times when you have to remind yourself of a different, easier time," she begins. "It's an escape but it serves refocus you." This is Lou Dalton, focused as ever.