martine rose on her 90s-inspired capsule for iconic italian casual brand napapijri
Having made a triumphant return to the runway (in a north London marketplace) during the men’s shows, the designer turns her hand to a reimagining of the Italian streetwear stalwart Napa.
London-based menswear designer Martine Rose has followed up her celebrated return to the runway -- held in Seven Sisters Indoor Market during London Fashion Week Men's -- with a capsule collection for the Italian casual brand Napapijri. Whereas her mainline collection paired tailoring in innovative proportions with silk shirts, ties and 80s style zip-off windbreakers, the collab with Napa sees Martine focus on the 90s, and that era's blend of high-fashion and streetwear.
"I took inspiration from Helly Hansen, Ralph Lauren Polo Sport, Coloured denim and Naf Naf," Martine tells i-D of the capsule's references. "I visited the extensive Napapijri Archive which had some incredible pieces," she adds. "For me, one piece in particular stood out and became the main point of inspiration for the collection: a Skidoo [anorak] created for an expedition to the North Pole. What I found most interesting about the Napapijri archive was seeing how the fabrications of the pieces have changed and developed. It was an incredible experience to see these archived heritage pieces."
The collection pairs cosy fleece hoodies, tracksuit bottoms and dungarees with logo straps in cream, canary yellow and navy blue with layered puffa gilets and bulky, split-side anoraks with details including large square pockets to the front and logo elastic inner sleeve cuffs.
NAPA by Martine Rose is distributed by SlamJam and will come out later this year.
Text Charlotte Gush