Designer Yoon Ahn on inspiration, death and the possible future of fashion

i-D went backstage at the AW 21 AMBUSH campaign to interview the creative director and enter the ever expanding universe of the Japanese brand.

by Gloria Maria Cappelletti
|
12 July 2021, 9:50am

With strong roots planted in the world of accessories, over the years AMBUSH has also made its way in the clothing scene, investigating itself the methodologies and inspirations that distinguish the practices. The result is a heterogeneous brand, which draws from multiple artistic and design sources to make them its own, capable of presenting itself as a genderless and unisex alternative to an increasingly saturated and homogenous fashion industry.

Fluidity and comfort are some of the keywords that make AMBUSH a brand with a propensity for experimentation and innovation. It’s this tension that makes the house so dynamic. AMBUSH is a project aimed at defining a type of fashion that is comfortable, simple but never predictable, and at times that walks on the threads of a purely conceptual fashion.

With strong roots planted in the world of accessories, over the years AMBUSH has also made its way in the clothing scene, investigating itself the methodologies and inspirations that distinguish the practices. The result is a heterogeneous brand, which draws from multiple artistic and design sources to make them its own, capable of presenting itself as a genderless and unisex alternative to an increasingly saturated and homogenous fashion industry.

AMBUSH FW21 backstage campaign

The new AW 21 AMBUSH collection proves all of this, a linear and seemingly essential wardrobe that also hides impactful ideas, such as acid colors and architectural silhouettes, and optical illusions conjured by a daring choice of fabrics. A collection that starts from the domestic dimension, the one in which the designer Yoon Ahn created it, and transports us into the world of the fantastic, the dreamlike and the surreal.

Read below the interview with Yoon Ahn and see the backstage pictures shot by Jon Bronxl during the AW 21 AMBUSH campaign!

Every collection is a set of inspirations and a communication tool. Could you tell us about your thoughts behind the Autumn/Winter 2021 co-ed collection and what signals are you sending with it?
It's a continuation of the SS 21 collection. A wardrobe-driven collection grounded in reality, but this time I made it more energetic through colors and waking up from the calm vibe ready to venture again into the world.

AMBUSH FW21 backstage campaign

The images of the AW 21 campaign shot by Harley Weir have aa powerful, almost metaphysical nature. What is the natural element that represents you the most?
Images shot by Harley are very powerful. I love the blur of the times, and definitely I have fire and air in me, so I think these elements represent me.

I understand that time dimensions are crucial to the concept of the AW 21 campaign. Why 12am 6am 6pm do play a key role in this creative process? Are these a sort of angel numbers?
Tentatively speaking, those are the times when the sun rises, at the high point and sets to capture the sense of time. Also, there is something quite geometric bout the layout of 12, 6, 6 so we went with this.

Three words that describe how you want your collection to make people feel when they wear it.
Ease, cozy, ignited.

AMBUSH FW21 backstage campaign

I've read your recent conversation with Kazuyo Sejima published in the AMBUSH Universe and you both talked about our age driven by algorithms and AI. How do you envision a distant future of fashion?
We are in an age driven by data and algorithms. Successful data and analytics transformation can help us in many areas of our lives; however, what separates humans from the machine is the capability to think on our own with consciousness. Machines perform as they are taught. In contrast, design is not an automated thing. We have the capability to imagine and do something uniquely original. I hope designers can embrace being even more human by exercising their own will through reasoning and morally conscience innovation.

How does what happens in the world transform into your work?
I always read and look out to have some sort of ‘Aha’ moments by connecting dots I notice. These things all transform into my work. 

AMBUSH FW21 backstage campaign

Do you have a motto or any rules you live by?
‘We are all dying, every moment that passes of every day’. That is the inescapable truth of this existence. I don't find this sad nor depressing. It's simply a fact and a reality. We often go throughout life as if we will have multiple chances and we will go on as if we are gonna live forever, but we are quite futile in the scale of the universe. Remember that quote helps me to live and appreciate everything that comes through life.

What advice would you give to young designers?
Learn and always study. When you are young, you got time to dabble at every position to see what you lean towards and feel most natural at. So you should always navigate throughout your career this way, doing best at what you feel most joyful with.

AMBUSH FW21 backstage campaign
AMBUSH FW21 backstage campaign
AMBUSH FW21 backstage campaign
AMBUSH FW21 backstage campaign
AMBUSH FW21 backstage campaign
AMBUSH FW21 backstage campaign
AMBUSH FW21 backstage campaign
AMBUSH FW21 backstage campaign

Credits


 Photography Jon Bronxl

Tagged:
Fashion