severed heads, #metoo and everything we learned during autumn/winter 18
In this week’s episode of i-D’s fashion podcast, Fash-On Fash-Off, we share everything we learned from the past month in fashion.
Gucci autumn/winter 18. Photography Mitchell Sams.
On this week’s podcast we’re trying something a little bit different. Over the past four episodes we’ve taken an inside look at Fashion Week: New York, London, Milan and Paris. We’ve discussed the shows we’re obsessed with and we’ve got the proverbial lowdown from our guests as we asked the question -- how did we get here?
This week we’re going to hear from a few of our previous visitants. We’re going to muse on the last month of fashion -- the who, the what, the where, the wow of autumn/winter 18. And we’re going to try and surmise what the impact will be on the rest of the year. Whether we’re going to all start carrying around our own Gucci-style severed heads -- things like that.
So, without further ado, here’s what some of the finest minds in fashion made of the last month. For the full interviews, listen to the podcast below. And if you enjoy this week’s episode, please do give us a five star rating on iTunes -- any other feedback would be pointless.
Steve Salter, i-D Fashion Editor
“For me, the key takeaway would be this new creative energy that is surging through the old fashion capitals. We’re used to seeing it in London but now we’re seeing it in New York with Vaquera, Gypsy Sport, Eckhaus Latta, Telfar. Even in Milan, which is historically about the big fashion houses, you’ve got Francesco Risso at Marni, and in Paris, Marine Serre and Glenn Martens at Y/Project who are really pushing things forward. They’re kind of united in spirit but they're all very distinct to the capitals they’re based in.”
Bojana Kozarevic, i-D Junior Fashion Editor
People are looking to fashion and fashion is responding to what’s going on in the world at the moment. Fashion isn’t saving lives, nor will it ever, but I think that it’s becoming more and more clear that fashion is an expression of the times. When people look to fashion, they might notice the more extreme things. They’ll see the Queen at Richard Quinn, the huge coats at Marc Jacobs, the huge crowds outside Off-White, the big forest at Chanel. But hopefully they’ll see that more serious issues are being tackled by fashion too. I don’t think you can seperate the real world from the shows that have taken place. And so, more and more, everything's going to be about empowerment and power dressing and discussing femininity. Asking, why does a woman dress the way she does? Why do we wear the things that we do? How are clothes going to propel further conversations about empowerment? It’s things that fashion always has done, only now people’s eyes are more open to it.
Douglas Greenwood, i-D Contributing Editor
I think one thing we all learned from autumn/winter 18 is that designers were more unselfish, proudly political and as altruistic as ever. I guess it was the timely coinciding of the movements Time’s Up and #MeToo. While we didn’t really see any obvious slogan tees carrying unsubtle feminist messages, it certainly gave designers the chance to explore the purpose of high fashion for the modern women. Whether it was Miuccia Prada’s collection that envisioned a woman walking home at night as something to be feared by others as opposed to be prayed upon, or something as comely and lovely as Molly Goddard’s IDGAF girl that she created for her show -- it felt like a thing that permeated this season. On top of that, there’s this new sense of social responsibility that brands now feel they have. Brands like Gucci and Balenciaga, for example, are seeing fashion as this very hierarchically, very fantastical thing and are playing an active part in trying to make it something that’s much more democratised and has a purpose beyond garments themselves. It’s a great opportunity to show that fashion can be used as a vehicle for change and for good as well.
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