remixed men’s shirts reign supreme at diesel black gold spring/summer 16
Why Andreas Melbostad might be taking cues from his Wall Street setting for his latest turn at the Italian brand’s helm.
Yesterday wasn't the first time Andreas Melbostad showed a Diesel Black Gold collection on Wall Street, but lately, his choice of venue -- an abandoned bank vault opposite the New York Stock Exchange -- has felt more fitting. Last season's power suits found their origins in Peter Lindbergh's black and white photos. The photographer wasn't top of his mind for spring/summer 16 collection, but the crisp men's shirts often seen in his iconic images of 90s New York -- or worn by IRL brokers strolling past the venue on their lunch breaks -- certainly were.
"This collection started with the idea of a girl taking a men's shirt and wearing it as a dress, but it got really abstract from there," Melbostad explained backstage. "I was in the mood for a more stark, cottony spirit, so we played a lot with that." There weren't many buttons or collars to be found among his offerings; Melbostad's play took shape in geometric details. Small cotton squares formed an eyelet pattern that featured on crisp tanks, dresses and skirts.
Now in his sixth season at Diesel Black Gold, the Norwegian designer is well versed in the Italian brand's biker culture codes. Those lighter cotton pieces provided the perfect compliment to "a sort of core: leather jackets, leather dresses, denim -- all those iconic staples for us," Melbostad said. Leather overalls and trousers were a bit baggier this season, and Melbostad switched up the jacket construction, opting for slightly boxier fits. "It's about injecting feminine touches within the strength of a men's silhouette," he noted.
Strength in silhouettes, sure, but also in casting choices. Diesel has been refining its catwalk crew each season to achieve the perfect tough-chic pack, anchored by its veteran campaign star Julia Nobis. Yesterday saw i-D cover stars Mica Arganaraz, Rianne van Rompaey, Karly Loyce and Greta Varlese joined by Kiki Willems, Lineisy Montero, and Harleth Kuusik. "We wanted girls that felt very believable for our brand with a sort of modern character to them. Of course it's a fashion show, but we want to have something that's very realistic." Melbostad said.
Text Emily Manning
Photography Jason Lloyd Evans