six emerging menswear labels to watch out for at this season's paris menswear shows
As eyes shift to Paris, we shine the spotlight on the French fashion capital's freshest talent.
Whenever French fashion is evoked, the same adjectives seem to come always back: elegant, eternal, effortless. Paris might be home to Coco, Yves and lots of Christian, but a few wild kids are busy disrupting any preconceived idea you might have of Gallic chic. Here are our favourite menswear labels to look out for in 2015.
Who? A pop, art-meets-fashion collective led by wild child Maroussia Rebecq, priestess of neon, D.I.Y. and provocation under any shape or form.
Why? Although Andrea Crews has been around for a decade, menswear was only launched last year - and, true to its iconoclastic DNA, it references just about anything the French can't pronounce: think touches of seapunk, cholas, gabber and normcore, most produced out of recycled (or rather 'upcycled', as Maroussia describes it) garments.
Who? Launched by duo Laura Do et Bastien Laurent, it mixes fashion design, scenography and decorative arts. The pair creates collections as well as entire sets around them.
Why? Their approach is an intellectual take on garment ("sartorial architecture and bodily ornamentation") but their clothes are wearable with a twist -such as trompe l'oeil wood prints, referencing the set design element.
Who? Led by Antwerp graduate Glenn Martens, who studied under Bruno Pieters and worked for label founder Yohan Serfaty, it is both conceptual and practical.
Why? Androgynous Matrix chic paired with a deep knowledge of tailoring and clever Origami pleats. Urban, sexy in ways you wouldn't expect, it makes every boy and girl look like Keanu Reeves in 2001. What more can one want?
Who? The founder Stéphane Ashpool is part of the creative and nightlife collective Pain o Chokola. Its name refers to Paris' red light district - and is where both the founder and the label were born—, and proudly defends a non-bourgeois Paris.
Why? The collection is a good mirror of contemporary Paris: refined sportswear juxtaposed with 1930s inspired hats and coats- in other words a 'glocal' (global and local) identity, both aware of fashion history and worldwide streetwear. No wonder ASAP Rocky is a fan.
Bleu de Paname
Who? This confidential label is the lovechild of former PR Thomas Giorgetti and Christophe Lépine, then working at Nike France. It specialises in 'bleu de travail' (traditional French workwear) produced locally.
Why? Although it started off as simple jackets, it has now expanded to full-blown collections and home wear, subtly celebrating French working class history and political engagement- most recently producing sweatshirts with the word 'Résistance.'
Who? The eponymous label initially started as a scarf brand. Its French founder, who cut his teeth at Narciso Rodriguez and Ralph Lauren is now based in Tokyo, where he draws a lot of inspiration from.
Why? He won French national fashion prize ANDAM by showing models wearing UGG boots and hoodies and the judges almost passed out. He references reggae when the whole world is listening to deep tech. How can you not love him?
Text Alice Pfeiffer