we speak to luke meier of OAMC about the new world of streetwear
We speak to Luke Meier, former head designer of Supreme on his new brand.
While high-end streetwear is having a moment, think Health Goths and the ubiquity of sneakers on runways, the guys who kicked off that trend looking elsewhere. Today, Luke Meier, former creative director of Supreme and Carhartt's Arnaud Faeh have launched OAMC, a label for the modern urban male: finely tailored, functional but luxurious, it is comes packed with delicate workwear references. Luke Meier answered our questions regarding high and low elegance, spirituality and what he learned at Supreme.
What did you learn at Supreme? What is the biggest change you felt you brought to the brand over the years?
At Supreme, I learned to be detail-oriented. James Jebbia, the director and owner, is insistent that each aspect of every product is carefully considered; nothing on any garment is without careful thought and analysis. I also learned not to care what people outside of our immediate crew thought about what we're doing ... If something was good to us, that's all that mattered. I hope that the biggest thing I brought to the brand was the execution of the high level of design that was expected.
OAMC seems to merge classical tailoring and urban touches - was that your aim? Did you feel this was missing on the market?
That is partially our aim. With OAMC, our intent is to make high-level modern menswear, and I design from the perspective of what I want and what I feel that I can't get in the market. Because I am a product of contemporary -predominantly— North American culture, this naturally comes through in what we make, so even in our tailored pieces there will be a certain urban perspective.
Today, the luxury world is embracing streetwear - what has changed? Why are people excited to wear sneakers and a suit?
I don't think that this is a new trend, I just think that it's becoming more pronounced. People with great style have always mixed high and low, luxury and street. I just think that some of the larger European brands are embracing this idea more, as I think it's taken a while for these brands to get past the social connotation of 'street' products. Sneakers can be just as elegant as brogues if worn in the right way. Japan has known this for a long time.
How has the urban male evolved since you first started designing?
The urban male is more open-minded about shape and fabric. This is a good thing, when done right.
Can you tell me about the collection you are currently presenting?
The autumn/winter 2015 collection is inspired by alpinism, specifically the dual presence of spirituality and evolution in the high mountains. The collection has a close connection to my personal experiences, and is well translated to be worn in the city. It's luxurious with functional aspects. It's the best collection we've done to date and I'm very proud of it.
Text Alice Pfeiffer