doing chores at phoebe english fall/winter 17
This season, the much-loved London menswear designer put her men to work.
This season, Phoebe English was all about those handy boys who can help out around the house. Her presentation at the BFC space on the opening day of LFW:M was a beautiful of installation of men and work: cleaning up, vacuuming, pairing socks, ironing, and hanging out the washing. (Although some of the boys did look a bit bemused by the instruction to vacuum up clothes pegs.)
Inspired by the creative men Phoebe knows, works, and lives with, the collection was rooted, as the presentation demonstrated, in a reality and practicality. This meant a focus on function: cuffed trousers, sturdy boots, jackets you can do the washing up in, and bags that can be worn in a variety of ways. This translated into a rough and ready palette of blues, blacks, and greens, that put the focus on silhouette and fabric, and their subtle beauty.
In fact, the fabric was the one nod to a more prosaic kind of luxury. Lush velvet made a welcome appearance alongside the more expected rugged cords and thick denims. There was something active, invigorating, and hardy in Phoebe English this season, a reconciliation with reality that points to an exciting future for the young designer.
Text Felix Petty