tourne de transmission spring/summer 16
Raw edges, soft suedes and loose denim as Graeme Gaughan and Barry Kamen reunite in a collection inspired by Colombian tribes.
Graeme Gaughan's label Tourne de Transmission started off as a t-shirt line back in 2012, but has swiftly grown into a fully-fledged label, offering up a relaxed, layered, organic look at this year's LC:M. In his show, We The Ignorant Youth, Gaughan looked to Colombia's Kogi tribe, who he came across in the BBC documentary The Elder Brothers' Warning. Amazed by how much his existing silhouette mirrored the Kogi's, he decided to look more closely at working with similar fabrics and colours too.
The show featured raw edges, soft suedes, loose denim and an Ikat fabric that almost came off like a Chanel tweed. The loose pants, board shorts and wrap shirts came mostly in creams and blacks (making each piece a dream to combine) and were worn with soft moccasins from the Kickers archive and hats from stylist Barry Kamen's enormous personal collection. Kamen, who formed part of Ray Petri's Buffalo family, recently worked with Gaughan on artwork for collection of t-shirts, and the two got along so well that they worked together on the show. We caught up with Kamen to find out about the Kogis, the collection and the changing London fashion scene.
Are you still regularly involved in fashion now?
I just style for people I like. I'm not that locked into it. I've always been a bit of an outsider. I spend most of my time painting, then get involved in this now and again. Painting is so weird and solitary, and every now and again I need to collaborate. I like to jump out and talk to people!
So how did this come about?
Me and Graeme were talking and he said, "Do you know about these guys called the Kogis?" And I said, "Absolutely. I've been checking them out for 30 years." That's what got me into it. What's interesting is the Kogis were wearing what Graeme was already designing. He saw them and was like, "Bloody hell, the clothes are really similar."
How do you think London fashion has changed since you were involved in the Buffalo days?
It's got a lot more business-minded. It's not quite as renegade as it used to be. This show feels more like it though. Of course there are still young people with no money trying to fulfill a dream, but lots of people are really thinking about who they can target and market to. Even the models come in and are talking about getting this job and that, whereas we never talked about that. It was all ad hoc, no money. You didn't expect to get anything out of it, or make a career out of it. Everyone was doing it when we were doing something else. It was much more like a family.
Text Stuart Brumfitt
Photography Mitchell Sams