victoria beckham on the importance of optimism to her autumn/winter 17 collection
The designer stressed the importance of luxury and strength in times like these.
It's hard to picture Victoria Beckham traipsing through the Tate with her brood, but an outing to the Paul Nash exhibit found its way into her latest collection of strict yet feminine clothing. You can see Nash's mystical moony landscapes in the mood of the pieces, as well in the curves of the jersey dresses, and in the earthiness in the palette. At the heart of this collection is a cool, just-right commitment to menswear, which spells strength for Victoria. After the show, she said, "It's always about empowering women."
That feminism, along with the inherent optimism of luxury, felt political without saying as much. Posh's power has always been in her cypher-like subtlety, but that doesn't mean she doesn't have a message. Today, she said, emphatically, "We have to be really optimistic now. We have to be positive. So what can I do to make my customer feel that? It's just about really beautiful clothes and luxury and strength." She's making clothes for the elegant bosses that can afford them, the women of the pantsuit revolution who ideally will be standing up to pussy grabbing and the like. ("It's about technique and the workmanship to make her feel really strong and protected," said Victoria.) Wouldn't Kamala Harris look great in that head-to-toe navy pants ensemble?
Speaking of navy, it was a real moment for black's tasteful little sister. Navy coats, navy cut-out sweaters, and slouchy navy wool pants all provided a base for the more unexpected pops of red, burgundy, and hot pink. The colour's most surprising appearance was in above-the-elbow gloves, an eccentric touch.
The gloves were a signifier Victoria's new modesty, one that has been at play for the past few seasons. As she explained, "For me it always is about being body conscious. Now I'd say it's a consciousness of the body." That might feel like semantics, but I get it. It's no longer about flagrantly showing off the figure; it's about covering up while being aware of its power, something that Victoria herself is expert at. Look at the way she coyly yet confidently hides behind her turtleneck at the final bow.
Text Rory Satran
Photography Mitchell Sams