the critics that matter this fashion month
As the old saying goes “everyone’s a critic,” and you probably won’t need to look further than your Facebook feed this fashion week to see the adage in action. As much as we love how social media brings the tents to our phones, true fashion criticism...
Suzy Menkes OBE
The O.G., Suzy holds the Legion d'Honneur in France and a British OBE. Wikipedia clocked her International Herald Tribune word count at over 1.7 million words in her 25 year tenure. A Google search of her hair alone yields 240,000 results. Without a doubt, the first person we'll be reading each morning is the best-known fashion journalist in the world, Suzy Menkes. After 25 years as the head fashion reporter and editor for the International Herald Tribune (since rebranded as The International New York Times), it was announced in March that Menkes would join Condé Nast International as the International Vogue Editor, making this her first New York Fashion Week aboard the good ship Condé. Suzy recently created shockwaves in the industry when she unmasked Matthieu Blazy as a member of Maison Martin Margiela's anonymous collective design team for her British Vogue column. We're excited to see what surprises Suzy might have in store this season. @SuzyMenkesVogue
When it was announced in March that Vanessa Friedman would be replacing both Suzy Menkes as the fashion editor for The International New York Times and Cathy Horyn as the chief fashion critic for The New York Times, she instantly became fashion's critic du jour. Drawing from twelve years of experience as the Financial Times fashion editor (the first person to ever hold the position), Friedman brings more informed insights into the industry's business side to her new super-role. Although she took her most recent assignment - the hard-hitting task of live tweeting the VMAs - understandably lightheartedly, we're looking forward to reading more than 140 characters on "Beyatards" from her this fashion week. @VVFriedman
Blanks first came to international attention as the host of the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation's globally syndicated television show Fashion File from its inception in 1989 until 2006. Blanks and Fashion File are credited for opening up the runway to a much wider audience, breaking down the culture of secrecy that kept catwalks behind closed doors. His Masters of Style documentaries, perhaps Fashion Files' most notable sub-series, revealed intimate portraits of the industry's leading visionaries. Presently the editor-at-large and principal show reporter of Style.com, Blanks is again pioneering a platform that expands Fashion Week's accessibility around the globe.
Taylor Swift might be saying goodbye forever to her former flames, but Robin Givhan and the Washington Post are back together and better than ever. After departing from the Post in 2011, Givhan returned to her position as the publication's principle fashion critic in May, despite the fact that the paper doesn't actually have a fashion section. The first person to win a Pulitzer Prize for fashion criticism, Givhan has never seen the industry just in terms of clothes, her pointed reviews masterfully contextualise fashion within larger social, political, and cultural issues that still resonate seasons later. @RobinGivhan
DIS magazine's 'Best and Worst'
"It's Blair Waldorf in a K-hole"; "The clothes felt cross-generational—free thinking MILFs and their teen daughters, a dress over pants for the whole family."; "There were a lot of mall stores rolled into one—definitely a Claire's vibe, some Wet Seal, Journeys, Justice, Juicy, maybe Auntie Anne's." What might sound like career-ending soundbytes from Style.com are actually pulled from the "Best" section (seriously) of DIS magazine's incredible seasonal show reviews. But this unabashed embrace of anti-aspirational SkyMall aesthetics shouldn't come as a shock to anyone familiar with the self-described online "post-Internet lifestyle magazine." In a world where the lines between fashion and commerce, editorial and advertisement are constantly eroding, DIS' reviews offer a radically different point of view from your standard glossy. And with modifiers like "inappropriately exposed nipples to piss off your parents at their charity gala," you've gotta admit, it's pretty funny! @DISmagazine
Text Emily Manning
Photography Paolo Roversi
Styling Edward Enninful