calvin klein collection fall/winter 16’s bold experimentation

Francisco Costa played with plaids and prints while presenting a lesson in chic geology.

by Emily Manning
19 February 2016, 5:30pm

Last season, Calvin Klein Collection creative director Francisco Costa did something a little surprising: prints. In the midst of the minimalist master's silky slip dresses and luxe liquid separates came computerized flower graphics, which bloomed across long dresses and laceless sneakers. Yesterday, Costa doubled down on that pattern play, debuting a series of plaids and animal prints created from photos of lynxes and skunks. A daring, impactful move for the house that neutral tones and "nothing comes between" built.

Plaids varied in color and scale; they met each other on loose trousers, skirts with bold side slits, and tailored wool outerwear. Belted shift dresses were easy and chic. Costa got a bit more experimental with the animal series, which followed an offering of sharp, structural leather pieces and black masculine looks. One highlight of the photo prints: the white and brown flecked long-sleeve dress modeled by Lexi Bolling.

Costa's experimentation wasn't just in his graphic development, but embellishment, too. Last season, his girls accessorized with simple body chains and small crystals (Kate's 93 runway look was likely on the mood board). This season, he positioned small stones and geodes within oblong cutouts. Small stones spangled Stella Lucia Deopito's dress; Bolling's aforementioned look had a slice of amber rock formation suspended directly in its center.

The collection exhibited all of Calvin Klein Collection's strongest points: top notch tailoring paired with beautifully undone sleekness. We're excited to see what brave new world he charts a course to next. 


Text Emily Manning 
Photography Jason Lloyd-Evans

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