In i-D’s collections story, we shoot our favourite looks from some of the most inspiring collections of the season and ask the designers about the thinking behind their work...
"This season I wanted things that felt very handworked and artisanal."
Marjan wears all clothing and jewellery Alexander Wang. Hat Supreme. Styling Alastair McKimm
Alessandro Michele, Gucci
"You can be who you want in fashion. So be yourself. Express your point of view."
Varya wears all clothing and jewellery Gucci. Styling Julia Sarr Jamois
Phoebe Philo, Céline
"I get a lot of satisfaction, weirdly, imagining these clothes in nature."
Marjan wears all clothing and jewellery Céline. Badges stylist's own. Styling Alastair McKimm
"If you have something really classic you can play with really incredible combinations and always try to be very chic and sophisticated." Fabio Zambernardi, Design Director
Amilna wears all clothing and jewellery Prada. Styling Julia Sarr-Jamois
"A modern expression of the glamorous spirit of the French Riviera. It has a romantic rusticity, as well as a sleek and luxurious sportiness that represents the cool insouciance and understated style of the women who inspire me."
Stella wears all clothing Ralph Lauren Collection. Styling Alastair McKimm
"It's all about techno femininity and sporty sensuality."
Pooja wears top Paco Rabanne. Styling Julia Sarr-Jamois
Francisco Costa, Calvin Klein
"The inspiration was the morning after. The image of a really cool woman in a slip dress waking up at his house. A take on Jean Harlow and the Hollywood spirit "
Jamilla wears ALL CLOTHING Calvin Klein Collection. Hat Supreme. Styling Alastair McKimm
"If you're too comfortable as a designer then it's stale, it means you're not doing a good job or pushing hard enough."
Amilna wears all clothing J.W. Anderson. Styling Julia Sarr-Jamois
Riccardo Tisci, Givenchy
"There were 88 looks in the collection; around 20 looks taken from my most iconic menswear collections, 10 of my key couture pieces alongside the womenswear ready-to-wear, which was inspired by a wedding and the bride and groom. A woman in a romantic and beautiful dress which I then paired with a tuxedo jacket."
Stella Lucia wears all clothing Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci. Styling Alastair McKimm
"I've never followed the rules of fashion. I've always found short cuts, and paths that I created especially for myself. I want to oppose the system of trends and propose something new. When everyone says that something is beautiful, I don't like it."
Jamilla wears all clothing Yohji Yamamoto. Styling Alastair McKimm
"We got really obsessed with singer-songwriters and the idea of someone creating things in their heads, it's all so personal. When you listen to music it's so raw. That's the frame of mind we were. We wanted everything to feel really raw."
Ciara wears top Marques'Almeida. Styling Julia Sarr-Jamois
Olivier Rousteing, Balmain
"I want to push my boundaries, rules and limits as a designer, because fashion is amazing but it is also amazing to give
Cayley wears all clothing Balmain. Styling Julia Sarr-Jamois
"This collection is a celebration of all that is present irrespective of its place in time."
Ciara wears all clothing Marc Jacobs. Styling Julia Sarr-Jamois
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, Proenza Schouler
"We were thinking about traditional clothes-making techniques and craft and somehow subverting them, repurposing them. Moving away from highly technical fabrics and embracing something that felt more organic, natural, more "real" in feeling."
Jamilla wears all clothing Proenza Schouler. Styling Alastair McKimm.
Sarah Burton, Alexander McQueen
"It's back to the idea of the artisan. Everything being organic and soft."
Stella Lucia wears all clothing Alexander McQueen. Styling Alastair McKimm
"I want to capture the women of real life. A woman more human, less put together."
Cayley wears top Versace. Styling Julia Sarr-Jamois
"I was inspired by a dress Kate Moss wore in the 90s when she was going out with Johnny Depp."
Marjan wears shirt and skirt Anthony Vacarello. Tie, tiepin and tights stylist's own. Styling Alastair McKimm
Alexander Wang, Balenciaga
"I wanted to play with romance and sensuality, things people don't really expect from me, and try something different. Balenciaga is a house of innovation, so I said 'let's try and look at the opposing idea. Very simple humble cloths, like linens, cottons, satins and silks, and try to give them this couture hand. Things were ruffled, laced and feathered! We wanted a purity."
Stella Lucia wears all clothing and jewellery Balenciaga. Styling Alastair McKimm
"This season's vision is about nourishment, sisterhood, motherhood and regeneration; women raising women, women becoming women and women supporting women."
Stella wears all clothing Rick Owens. Styling Alastair McKimm
Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, Kenzo
"We did a thirteen-month trip when we were sophomores in college, and when you're visiting a ton of countries, you're excited about the culture and you're just taking it all in. As you travel you're assimilating and adapting to new environments, and anyone can relate to that sentiment. We wanted the collection to feel bright—to know that this collection is based on travel , discovery and acceptance."
Pooja wears all clothing Kenzo. Styling Julia Sarr-Jamois
Silvia Venturini Fendi, Fendi
"The clash of opposites- a quintessential part of the Fendi lexicon is pushed to quiet extremes; a constant tension between organic and synthetic, natural and technical, celebrates the wabi-sabi beauty of perfect imperfection."
Ciara wears playsuit Fendi. Tights Emilio Cavallini. Styling Julia Sarr-Jamois
"Sporty, flirty, tough, the travelling Dsquared2 femme of next summer rides the perfect set by day, and by dusk, is dressed up for the party of the season. Her wardrobe is detailed with her penchant for surfing and couture."
Pooja wears bodysuit and corset DSsquared2. Styling Julia Sarr-Jamois
Nicolas Ghesquière, Louis Vuitton
"The collection sets off to conquer the fascinating territory that is today's woman, a complement of strength and fragility. And it offers up an exhilarating challenge: the adventure depends on you."
Stella Lucia wears all clothing Louis Vuitton. Styling Alastair McKimm
Miuccia Prada, Miu Miu
"The world is becoming very irrational, and I wanted to reflect that."
Varya wears all clothing and hair band Miu Miu. Styling Julia Sarr-Jamois
Photography Daniel Jackson
Fashion Director Alastair McKimm
Senior Fashion Editor Julia Sarr-Jamois
Hair Holli Smith at LGA Management using Bumble and bumble
Make-up Romy Soleimani at Tim Howard Management using NARS Cosmetics
Nail technician Rica Romain at LMC Worldwide using Chanel S 2016 and Body Excellence Hand Cream
Set design Gerard Santos
Photography assistance Jake Merrill
Digital technician Karen Goss
Styling assistance Lauren Davis, Rosie Williams, Sydney Rose Thomas, Bojana Kozarevic, Anna Santangelo
Hair assistance Yuhi Kim, Michiko Yoshida
Make-up assistance Rie Tsukui, Kuma
Set design assistance Two Hawks Young, Abdiel Muonz
Casting Piergiorgio Del Moro
Models Marjan Jonkman at One. Jamilla Hoogenboom at Women, Chiara Mazzoleni at Marilyn. Stella Lucia at DNA. Amilna Estevao at The Society. Kiki Willems and Cayley King at IMG. Pooja Mor at Elite. Shelby Hayes at The Lions. Varya Shutova at Muse.