pfw: rahul mishra spring/summer 15
Last February, Indian designer Rahul Mishra won over Tim Blanks, Franca Sozzani, Angelica Chueung, Frida Giannini, Colin McDowell and Alexa Chung to receive the International Woolmark Prize, and his spring/summer 15 collection didn’t disappoint either.
Showing at Palais de Tokyo, Mishra's intricately embroidered pieces married East and West through a celebration of Indian craftsmanship. "I am like a storyteller in a little boat who travels to different places," explains Mishra in the show notes, "in the small villages of India I have met craftspeople and makers and now I have sailed to Paris to tell their stories in a new light."
High necklines and knee-length hems mixed with see-through fabrics and flashes of waist made for a demure but sensual show. It was the embroidery however that caught our eye. Japanese stencil art mixed with explosive geometric patterns covered the clothes in a constellation of knotted flowers and winding vines. It was mathematics mixed with graphics, mixed with natural form. And it worked. Watch this space.
Text Felicity Kinsella