christopher raeburn spring/summer 16
Christopher Raeburn takes us deep into the rainforests of Borneo.
Christopher Raeburn always manages to find a different, fascinating world to infiltrate when coming up with a new collection. Adhering to a common military thread and in line with his ongoing Remade concept (which recycles army surplus), Raeburn has taken us to the Inuit community in the Arctic, the Desert Boneyard in Arizona and the middle of the ocean - on a 25 man life raft - and back. Today, it's all about the tribes of Borneo andThe Most Offending Soul Alive. The soul in question is British anthropologist Tom Harrison. Harrison devoted his life to studying and preserving Borneo, and was even parachuted in during the Second World War to gain the trust of the island's local tribes. Long-haired boys strode down the catwalk in jackets and shorts reinterpreted out of parachutes, sweaters and T-shirts featuring Borneo's native - and endangered - orangutans, bomber jackets made from cork patches and tops printed with contour maps of the island. Accessories were stellar this season, with a huge amount of Remade rucksacks on show and, as is tradition, an animal bag in the form of an orangutan. The evolution of the Raeburn brand reached new heights this season and we can't wait to see where the designer takes us to next.
Hi Christopher, how are you feeling?
That's the most nervous I've ever been before a show.
It's a bit bigger, it was very new for us - I hope you saw a lot of newness. I think it's good to be nervous. Still alive, phew!
Well done! Tell me a bit about the ideas behind the show…
We quite like our characters and our narrative, as you know. We found an amazing guy called Tom Harrison, who was famous during the 30s and 40s, through to the 50s actually. He was known as "The Barefoot Anthropologist" and he was an English guy who went to Borneo and lived with the tribes there way before anyone was doing anything like that. I really like that mix between the 50s shapes and the oversized trousers and the military references, mixed with all of the textiles and texture from the tribal side. It was mashing those two things together.
What was in the Remade section this season?
We had quite a lot of different fabrics this season, including these really beautiful air break parachutes, that we saw to begin with, then as we moved along, we reused sleeping bag fabrics, the camouflage was old tents and then came through to Swiss denim, this like 1950s, really hardcore denim. Then we had our parachutes and things coming through to the end.
How do you personally feel it's evolved from your last collection?
Well, there's a lot more knitwear, that we've never done before at spring/summer, we've reduced the amount of outerwear, I think in the right way. We've really focused a lot more on leg wear and shorts, kind of really getting all those things right, and growing the accessories, which has always done really well for us.
Text Felicity Kinsella
Photography Jason Lloyd Evans