nyfw: public school's spring/summer 15 show makes the grade
Based on their well documented winning streak (including the CFDA’s Swarovski Award for Menswear and the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award) we had a feeling fashion’s menswear brand of the moment Public School would be one of the hottest tickets this NYFW...
If someone actually did cough up the coins for those tickets, I'm sure they'd say the better part of their rent was well spent; Osborne and Chow's spring/summer 15 show was one surprise after another. Andre Leon Talley and his cape du jour were rocketed up the Milk elevators shrouded in as much secrecy at a 6'6 editor serving Darth Vader vibes can preserve. Before attendees could finish Snapchatting the piles of mysterious white confetti on the floor or even a sneaky shot of Anna Wintour's bob, they were treated to a riffed-out live soundtrack from Twin Shadow (perhaps the first taste of his highly anticipated third album Eclipse.) And just when we thought it was over, Jessica Stam returned to the runway to rock the collection's killer final look. When Osborne and Chow emerged from backstage, Chow's adorably proud son mobbed his dad with a big bear hug.
A collection guided by notions of distortion and disruption, the looks began as more exacting black and white geometric patterns and shapes that mixed mesh with silk and loose knits with crisp shirting. Gradually, Osborne and Chow injected the collection with more color; easing into deep, cool blues that highlighted the pair's penchant for layered looks. The pair also channeled their appetite for destruction through print and pattern: offering bold stripes, webs of spirals, and Rorschach style digital imaging.
The men's looks struck a nice balance between sharper cut shirting and breezier bottoms that moved beautifully on the runway, nailing casual cool with details like draw strings and micro-mesh paneling that were just the right side of athletic without looking too locker room. But Public School's genius is really in its attention to length and proportion, hitting baggier and below the knee gave the Public School guy and girl that effortless edge. And with every piece made right here in New York, Public School is the hometown team worth cheering for.
Text Emily Manning
Photography Mitchell Sams