marc jacobs brings life to the runway
The designer closes out NYFW with a colorful collection that pays homage to Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld.
Photos by Mitchell Sams.
The world, frankly, is quite depressing, and as the fashion press filed into the Park Avenue Armory on Wednesday night, the 18th anniversary of 9/11, it wasn’t assured that last night would be any different. “It has been 18 years and a day we will never forget,” Marc said in his show notes. He continued, however, as we waited in an assortment of strange chairs, that this was “a celebration of life, joy, equality, individuality, optimism, happiness, indulgence, dreams and a future unwritten.”
Indeed it was. With all the attendees sat facing the door of the Armory, the models burst out en masse and marched towards us to the sound of Doris Day’s “Dream A Little Dream of Me.” You couldn’t see much, apart from color and supermodels — that was until each model took her turn around the audience, twirling in the mode of Pat Cleveland in her heyday. The color scheme, if you could call it that, was everything under the rainbow, the silhouettes a mis of 70s and 80s. Flairs, blazers, frou frou dresses, and even a fedora were given the full color-drenched treatment. “Iconic images of the designers we love,” Marc wrote, and thus we were treated to homages to the work of Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld, and models who looked like Sharon Tate (Gigi Hadid, barefoot), Anita Pallenberg, and Liza Minelli. The work that had gone into it was simply dazzling, each model wearing a look so utterly different to the last, down to the nails (by Nails by Mei).
Choreographer Stephen Galloway, perched backstage, has obviously given inspiration instruction to the models, but much of the show’s charm came from the sense of fun the women walking it carried. Guinevere Van Seenus looked absolutely thrilled — as did Binx Walton — to slink down the catwalk and wave their arms in the air. Honestly, if this is the revolution against the dull and the digital, the rebellion against what Jacobs refers to as the “computer or the cloud,” then sign us up. “From the genius of Karl, the cheerful and bright eyes positivity of Doris Day, the incomparable timeless style of Lee Radziwill to the effortless coolness of Anita Pallenberg that endures half a century later among the endless sea of digital influencers,” Marc wrote.
The sea is deep, and Marc is just an island of good design in the world. Dry land is hard to come by, however, and thus we’ll let ourselves be washed up on his beach. Perhaps, however, Marc is more than an island, and is in fact a volcano — one spewing new land, ideas, and shore for us to beach upon. We just hope his fire catches.