telfar autumn/winter 14 show menswear
Greeting you as you entered the New Museum for the impending Telfar show, was a Madame Tussauds-esque Clemens’ mannequin, smiling from ear-to-ear whilst rocking a Telfar-designed graphic sweatshirt that read “customer.” Now that’s our kind of marketing...
Telfar autumn/winter 14
The first floor was transformed into a Telfar store for the day, with a slew of oversized leather bags on display as well as thirty-three mini-3D figurines created by Shapeways, of the foxy models rocking their Telfar autumn/winter 14 looks. The show was held on the top floor in the sky room. Over a fun minimal beat, an unidentified voice repeated "Telfar" throughout, cleverly throwing in a handful of varying inflections (the "Telfar" garnered the most laughs, and showcased the ATL Twins' glowing grills most effectively). Inspired by the "extremely normal," our favorite (besides the bags, of course) was the navy detachable, suede, hooded trench, which, when paired with the Telfar boots, gave off bathrobe vibes for the stylish baller. While all the cool kids took selfies with the Telfar mannequin post-show, i-D got to chat with the buzzed-about designer IRL.
How did the amazing pairing with the New Museum come about?
The New Museum has really supported me to do this, I'm going to be participating in their Triennial in 2015. They talked to me about Fashion Week, and I really wanted to do an installation that kind of reflected the runway show that was going on upstairs. We just went from there, we were really inspired by size and proportion this season. The space we used started to look exactly like the collection.
We're totally getting mallrat vibes...
We were really inspired by the holiday commercials too. Gift-giving and like, paper shopping bags! We were like, "That's so chic!" Just to look like you're shopping all the time and holding like six shopping bags. We went for it and we did that. I also looked back at old collections and infused a lot of things and either made it five times bigger than it was, or actually just left it how it was -- by keeping the original size but catering it to the collection. That's how it came about -- it's all past collections brought to 2014. I even called the collection '2014' because it's what's happening to me now, all of these past things.
Audiences barely offer applause at Fashion Shows, but today you even got some laughs. Impressive.
I appreciate that! I think a smile is the most cynical thing you can do in fashion. That's like our trademark. The theme of the collection is the clothes, and I always try to stick to that, because, you know, it's what it is. The collection's not really a reference from a lot of places - it's more like something I designed from 2007 that I remade seven years later in a different context. I've just been really looking back on what I've done and kind of perfecting that and catering it to what's going on now for me.
What did you find most challenging for autumn/winter 14?
The collection is always work and I'm used to that. But this process of actually making 3D figures at a photoshoot for a lookbook was crazy. We'd shoot a model and then we'd send him over to get scanned in the 3D scanning thing. It was crazy.
Speaking of 3D figures, yours is way bigger than the models… Will yours even fit in your apartment?!
I got 3D scanned too! Hopefully it's in a beautiful gallery… But I think it may come to my showroom for sales - it's a really good witching process.
Text Alex Catarinella