pfw: iris van herpen spring/summer 15
When you think of the future of fashion – the real future, not just what is most beautiful, but what is most innovative – you think of Iris van Herpen. In the same way that other designers will work with embroiderers or jewelers, ANDAM Fashion Award...
Following on from the vacuum-packed-model-furor that surrounded her last show, the fashion world was on tenterhooks to see what Iris van Herpen had up her sleeve for spring/summer 15. Entitled 'Magnetic Motion', the show took place in the skeletal Pompidou Centre - a setting that, had Iris been an architect and not a fashion designer, looked like something she'd dream up. Previous to this collection, the Dutch designer took a trip to Switzerland's European Organisation for Nuclear Research, CERN, to check out it's Large Hadron Collider - the world's largest and most powerful particle collider, and based her show on it's manipulative magnetic fields.
Models walked out in foil like forms, reminiscent of the Chinese paper lanterns or folding bucky balls you'd make in school, but a helluva lot more intricate and perfectly framing the body. But the pieces that stole the show came last.
With the help of architect Philip Beesley and artist Jólan van der Wiel, van Herpen created translucent webs, that encased skin tight black dresses - the visual incarnation of a magnetic field - and a silicone dress like a frozen water droplet, perfectly molded to the body but sitting just outside of it.
3D printing, perfect packaging and collaborations with great scientific institutions - Iris van Herpen's mind is one of a kind. Fashion is all about originality, and when everything's been done before it's not often you come across someone like Iris. She's championing progress and fashioning the future.
Text Felicity Kinsella
Photography Mitchell Sams